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in one bite. Other than in a soup, it is rare that I can be certain all the elements are present in every bite. With the one-bite experience we have designed here, every part of it—beginning, middle, and end—is controlled by me.

The fish is like an artist’s canvas. We begin with the fish: what is the flavor, what is its texture? Tuna is totally different from fluke and Spanish mackerel. Then, we enhance each unique fish with small notes of various fruits, raw and cooked vegetables, nuts, and prepared elements rooted somewhere in the Greek culinary lexicon, even if loosely. There are marmalades, pickled vegetables, gelées—an unlimited range of techniques we can use to capture the romance of the evolution on the palate. Even though this recipe is a new dish, not found in Greek cuisine, an echo or memory of traditional Greek fare remains. These raw meze capture those elusive memories better than any other dish.

At Anthos, the raw platter is not a static presentation, it changes with my thoughts and the market, but there are always five fish with five little compositions. Here, each of the five is created separately and then united for serving.

clockwise from top left: Hamachi Meze, Botan Shrimp Meze, Sardine Meze, Taylor Bay Scallop Meze, and Tuna Meze

TUNA MEZE

FOR THE DEHYDRATED WATERMELON

1 cup finely diced fresh watermelon, rind reserved for pickling

FOR THE PICKLED WATERMELON RIND

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 fresh bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

1 cup dry white wine

1 pint white wine vinegar

½ cup kosher salt

½ cup sugar

FOR THE GRILLED MANOURI

1-ounce slice manouri cheese, about 1½ inches thick

Extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

TO ASSEMBLE

½ cup finely diced fresh watermelon

Dehydrated Watermelon

Pickled Watermelon Rind, cut into a small dice

A little of the pickling liquid

Extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon Dried Lemon Zest (page 270) or ¼ teaspoon fresh-grated lemon zest

4 ounces yellowfin tuna, sliced into 4 pieces

Small, picked sprigs dill

Grilled Manouri

DEHYDRATED WATERMELON

Spread the diced watermelon on a Silpat (silicone baking mat) and place in a 170°F oven. Prop the door open slightly with a balled-up dishtowel and dry until very hard. It should resemble hard candy.

PICKLED WATERMELON RIND

Lightly toast the spices and herbs in a dry saucepan. Add the wine and reduce by half. Stir in the vinegar, kosher salt, and sugar. Strain the liquid over the diced rind and let it soak overnight, or as long as possible. Lift the rind from the pickling liquid before serving.

GRILLED MANOURI

Paint the manouri with olive oil and season with kosher salt and pepper. Grill on both sides until char-marked. Reserve.

TO ASSEMBLE

Mix together the fresh watermelon, the Dehydrated Watermelon, and the Pickled Watermelon Rind. Dress lightly with a little pickling liquid, olive oil, and Dried Lemon Zest. Place about 1 teaspoon of the watermelon salad on top of each piece of raw fish. Garnish with a dill sprig and a small wedge of Grilled Manouri.

TAYLOR BAY SCALLOP MEZE

FOR THE TAYLOR BAY SCALLOPS

2 tablespoons finely diced fennel

2 tablespoons finely diced green apple

2 tablespoons finely diced pastourma (or prosciutto, or speck)

2 cured anchovies, minced

1 teaspoon Dried Lemon Zest (page 270) or ½ teaspoon fresh-grated lemon zest

Extra-virgin olive oil

Fresh lemon juice

Sea salt and cracked black pepper

12 Taylor Bay scallops, cleaned; 4 shells reserved

TO ASSEMBLE THE MEZE

Rock salt

4 Taylor Bay scallop shells

Taylor Bay Scallops

Sea salt and cracked black pepper

Coriander flowers

TAYLOR BAY SCALLOPS

Toss together the fennel, apple, pastourma, anchovies, and Dried Lemon Zest. Dress lightly with olive oil, lemon juice, sea salt, and pepper. Fold in the scallops and reserve.

TO ASSEMBLE

In a small vessel, make a layer of rock salt to secure each shell upright and level. Mound the scallop meze in the shell, and garnish with sea salt, cracked pepper, and a coriander flower.