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garlic, so as the flesh is crisping, it is being basted with multiple layers of added flavors. As you chew, you get a wonderfully crunchy exterior that exquisitely contrasts with the fork-tender interior achieved in the slow braise. The result is a tender, smoky, crispy, and garlicky flesh before we even begin to compose the dish.

At this point, the octopus would typically be finished with a squeeze of fresh lemon and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. In this new dish, we replace the acidity typically provided by the fresh lemon juice with a pickled vegetable salad that allows us to incorporate both the perfect level of acidity and additional depth of flavor and texture. We bring back the lemon element in a slightly sweet guise, a lemon confit that is caramelized during the final pan-roast. Shaved fresh fennel adds brightness to these complex flavors; a cold julienne of smoked octopus head offers a balance of temperatures to the assembly. The completed dish evokes memories of its peasant roots, but it is presented in a style that is at once earthy and evolved.

FOR THE PICKLED PEARL ONIONS

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

½ cup dry red wine

1 cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 pint whole pearl onions, peeled

FOR THE PICKLED CHANTERELLES

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

½ cup dry white wine

1 cup white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons sugar

8 chanterelle mushrooms, stems peeled and grit rinsed away

FOR THE LEMON CONFIT

cup sugar

cup water

1 lemon

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

FOR THE SMOKED OCTOPUS

4 to 6-pound octopus

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil

10 shallots

10 cloves garlic, smashed

1 large bulb fennel, quartered

2 stalks celery, thinly sliced

10 sprigs thyme

½ bunch dill

3 fresh bay leaves

1½ tablespoons whole black peppercorns

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

4 lemons, sliced

4 quarts dry white Greek wine, warm

1 quart applewood smoking chips, soaked

FOR THE FENNEL PURÉE

1 pound fennel bulbs, quartered and cored

½ pound Idaho potatoes, peeled

3 shallots

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, smashed

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

1 tablespoon fennel pollen

2 quarts whole milk

TO ASSEMBLE

4 Smoked Octopus legs, at room temperature

Extra-virgin olive oil

Pickled Chanterelles and Pickled Pearl Onions

1 small, pale yellow celery heart, thinly sliced on a bias

Lemon Confit slices

½ bulb fennel, shaved paper-thin

Pale yellow leaves from the celery heart, torn into small pieces

Fennel Purée

Smoked Octopus head, at room temperature

PICKLED PEARL ONIONS

In a dry pan, lightly toast the spices. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the vinegar, kosher salt, and sugar. Simmer for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the onions in a heatproof container. Pass the hot pickling liquid through a fine sieve, pour it over the onions, and let them soak overnight, refrigerated, or as long as possible.

PICKLED CHANTERELLES

In a dry pan, lightly toast the spices. Add the wine and reduce by half. Add the vinegar, kosher salt, and sugar. Simmer for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the mushrooms in a heatproof container. Pass the hot pickling liquid through a fine sieve, pour it over the mushrooms, and let them soak overnight in the refrigerator, or as long as possible.

LEMON CONFIT

Make a simple syrup with the sugar and water. Slice the lemon paper-thin, preferably with an electric slicer. Gently remove the seeds, leaving the slices intact.

Layer the lemon slices in a small, heatproof dish. Season each slice with kosher salt and pepper, and top with the shallot and garlic slices. Barely cover the slices with the warm simple syrup; bake at 200°F for 1 hour, or until the lemon is tender. Remove the confit to a sheet of parchment paper and reserve.

SMOKED OCTOPUS

Cut the head from the octopus,