Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [111]
Built into a hillside at Seljavellir, 7km west of Skógar, Seljavallalaug is a historical old concrete pool filled by a natural hot spring. Park by the farm and follow the path upwards.
Horse riding can be arranged through the farm Skálakot ( 487 8953; www.skalakot.com; sb Ikr2000), 15km west of Skógar. Short rides cost Ikr2600 per hour; you can wander up by the glacier on four-hour trips (Ikr6000) or plan an all-inclusive riding holiday (around Ikr18,000 per day). Skálakot also has rather strange sleeping-bag accommodation, in a dorm that looks straight into the stables!
Sleeping & Eating
SKÓGAR
Skógar campsite ( 487 8801, 899 5955; sites per person Ikr850; Jun–mid-Sep) This place has a great location, right by Skógafoss; the sound of falling water makes a soothing lullaby. There’s a small toilet block with fresh water (showers Ikr200).
Skógar Youth Hostel ( 487 8801; skogar@hostel.is; sb/d/tr Ikr2100/5800/7150; 25 May–15 Sep) In an old school, this 30-bed hostel is very close to the waterfall…but, unfortunately, you can’t quite see it from the building! Never mind – a minute’s walk and you’re there. There’s a guest kitchen and a laundry.
Edda Hotel ( 444 4000; www.hoteledda.is; sb/s/d Ikr2000/8000/10,000; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) This modern and comfortable summer hotel close to the museum is split over two buildings. Sleeping-bag spaces are in the gym, or choose simple rooms with shared bathrooms. The Edda Hotel has a licensed restaurant and a hot pot.
Hótel Skógar ( 487 4880; www.hotelskogar.is; s/d from €167/222; May–mid-Sep; ) Breaking the IKEA mould, this architecturally interesting hotel has unusual but quite romantic rooms, all with en suites, embroidered curtains and bedspreads, and wooden animals dotted about. There’s a decent restaurant, a hot tub and sauna in the garden, a computer for internet access, and a bad bird-eating cat.
Fossbúð ( 11am-8pm Jun-Aug) Advertised as a restaurant, Fossbúð is really more a place for quick snacks – soup, salad, hamburgers and pizzas. It opens inside the local community centre in high season only.
WEST OF SKÓGAR
There are several places to stay at Ásólfsskáli, around 15km west of Skógar; and at Lambafell/Raufarfell, about 6km west of Skógar.
Gistihúsið Edinborg ( 846 1384; www.islandia.is/thorn; Lambafell; s/d Ikr10,500/15,200, cottage Ikr16,400; ) Formerly named Hotel Edinborg (and still signposted as such from the main road), this is actually farmhouse accommodation with few facilities! However, this tall tin-clad house does have inviting wooden-floored en suite rooms with comfy beds, and an attic seating area with glacier views. There are also two snug cottages for hire. The nearest place for an evening meal is 5km away. Breakfast is Ikr1200.
Drangshlið I ( 487 8868; drangshlid@drangshlid.is; Raufarfell; s/d Ikr8700/17,000; advance bookings necessary Oct-May) At the foot of a green cliff full of nesting birds, this modern white farmhouse has large guest rooms, all with private bathroom, and a big, bright dining room for meals. Look out for the barns built into caves in the surrounding fields.
Country Hotel Anna ( 487 8950; www.hotelanna.is; Ásólfsskáli; s/d Ikr14,500/19,800; ) Ooh, this place is nice! Its seven en suite rooms are furnished with antiques, embroidered bedspreads settle over big, comfy beds, and facilities include minifridges, kettles and satellite TV. The hotel has a Green Globe award for environmental goodness. Prices include breakfast, and evening meals at the whitewashed cafe (open 2pm to 8.30pm mid-June to August) are possible if prebooked.
Getting There & Away
Buses from Reykjavík to Skaftafell, Vík and Höfn stop at the Edda Hotel in Skógar (Ikr4900, three hours).
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SKÓGAR TO VÍK Í MÝRDAL
Sólheimajökull
One of the easiest glacial tongues to reach is Sólheimajökull, which unfurls from the main Mýrdalsjökull ice cap. A 5km bumpy dirt track (Rte 222) leads off the Ring Road to a small car park; from there, the ice is approximately