Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [113]
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You can take a tour through the arch in an amphibious vehicle with Dyrhólaeyjarferðir ( 487 8500; www.dyrholaey.com; tours adult/6-14yr Ikr4500/3500).
According to Njál’s Saga, Kári – the only survivor of the fire that wiped out Njál’s clan – had his farm here. Another Viking Age connection is the cave Loftsalahellir, reached by a track just before the causeway to Dyrhólaey, which was used for council meetings in saga times.
Camping is prohibited on Dyrhólaey. There’s accommodation available at Hótel Dyrhólaey ( 487 1333; dyrholaey@islandia.is; s/d Ikr15,900/19,900; ), about 9km west of Vík at the farm Brekkur I. This large green guest house has the big rooms typical to modern bungalow motel-style hotels in Iceland; some have great views of the coast. There’s also a restaurant (open 11.30am to 2pm and 7pm to 9pm April to September).
Reynisfjara
On the west side of Reynisfjall, the high ridge above Vík, a dirt road leads down to the black volcanic beach at Reynisfjara, which is backed by an incredible stack of basalt columns, which look like a giant church organ. The surrounding cliffs are full of caves formed from twisted and tortured basalt, and puffin chicks belly-flop off the cliffs here every summer. Immediately offshore are the sea stacks of Reynisdrangur. There are fabulous views west along the beach to the rock arch at Dyrhólaey.
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VÍK Í MÝRDAL
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One of our favourite places in Iceland, Vík is a tiny strip of green wedged between the looming glacier Mýrdalsjökull and a battered beach of black sand and pebbles. It’s a welcoming little community surrounded by natural wonders. The village started life as a fishing outpost, but a cooperative society was formed here in 1906 and is still Vík’s biggest employer.
Information
The tourist office ( 487 1395; http://brydebud.vik.is; Víkurbraut 28; 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm Jun-Aug) is housed in the historic trading house BrydebúÐ. Kaupþing has an ATM and foreign-exchange desk. The post office has internet access (Ikr700 per hour).
Sights & Activities
Vík’s most famous sight is the cluster of sea stacks at Reynisdrangur, which rise from the ocean at the western end of the black-sand beach like sinister rocky fingers. The highest stack is 66m tall. The nearby cliffs are good for puffin watching. A highly recommended walk (upwards from the western end of Vík) takes you to the top of the ridge Reynisfjall (340m), which offers superb views along the coast.
The tin-clad house Brydebúð was built in Vestmannaeyjar in 1831 and moved to Vík in 1895. Today it houses the tourist office, Halldórskaffi and a small museum/exhibition centre (adult/under 16yr Ikr500/free; 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-5pm Jun-Aug), with displays on fishing, what it’s like to live under the volcano Katla, and locally made church vestments.
Vík’s church has some unusual red-and-white stained-glass windows in spiky geometrical shapes. The big souvenir shop Víkurprjón ( 487 1250; www.vikwool.is; Rte 1) is a coach-tour hit – you can watch woolly jumpers being made here.
Vík has a small open-air swimming pool ( 487 1174; Mánabraut 3; adult/5-15yr Ikr300/150; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hrs winter).
Sleeping & Eating
Vík campsite ( 487 1345, 899 2406; sites per person Ikr800, cottages Ikr6000; Jun-Aug) The campsite sits under a grassy ridge at the eastern end of the village, just beyond the Edda Hótel. There’s an octagonal building with cooking facilities, washing machine, toilets and free showers. Six-person farmhouse-style cottages are also available.
Norður-Vík Youth Hostel ( 487 1106; www.hostel.is; Suðurvíkurvegur; sb dm/d Ikr2100/5800; Apr-Oct) Vík’s friendly hostel is this old beige house on the hill behind the village. Good facilities include guest lounge, kitchen, breakfast (Ikr1000) and bike hire (per half-day/day Ikr1300/1800). It’s usually booked out in summer.
Gistihús Ársalir ( 487 1400; simon@ismennt.is; Austurvegur 7; sb/s/d Ikr2400/5000/8000) There are spacious rooms with shared bathrooms (some with balconies) at this white