Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [115]
Heimaey is the only inhabited island. Its little town and sheltered harbour lie between dramatic klettur (escarpments) and two ominous volcanoes – blood-red Eldfell and conical Helgafell. Heimaey is famous for its puffins – around 10 million birds come here to breed – and for ÞjóðhátíÐ, Iceland’s biggest outdoor festival, held in August.
At the time of writing, the ferry Herjólfur provided daily connections to Þorlákshöfn on the mainland. It carries cars, but Heimaey is small enough to explore on foot. See the boxed text for planned changes to the ferry route. There are also flights here from Reykjavík and Bakki (near Hvolsvöllur).
Return to beginning of chapter
HEIMAEY
pop 4090
Heimaey enjoys a spectacular setting, squeezed between dramatic cliffs to the west and the two looming volcanic cones to the east.
History
The island has had a turbulent and bloody history. The Landnámabók recounts that Ingólfur Arnarson originally came to Iceland with his blood-brother Hjörleifur, who was murdered by his Irish slaves (Westmen) shortly after landing. The slaves then fled to Heimaey, but Ingólfur hunted them down and killed them all.
Over the centuries the island was a marauders’ favourite. The English raided Heimaey throughout the 15th century, building the stone fort Skansinn as their HQ. In 1627 Heimaey suffered the most awful attack by Algerian pirates, who went on a killing spree around the island, murdering 36 islanders and kidnapping 242 more (almost three-quarters of the population). The rest managed to escape by abseiling down cliffs or hiding in caves along the west coast. Those who were kidnapped were taken as slaves to north Africa; years later, 27 islanders had their freedom bought for them…and had a long walk home.
The volcanoes that formed Heimaey have come close to destroying the island on several occasions. The most famous eruption in modern times began unexpectedly at 1.45am on 23 January 1973, when a vast fissure burst open, gradually mutating into the volcano Eldfell, and prompting the island’s evacuation (see the boxed text).
Information
The summer tourist office (Map Click here; 481 3322; www.visitwestmanislands.com; Heiðarvegur; 10am-6pm daily mid-May–mid-Sep) moved to the main street in 2008 but may move back to the library again.
There are Sparisjóðurinn (Map Click here; 488 2100; Bárustigur 15) and Íslandsbanki (Map Click here; 440 4000; Kirkjuvegur 23) banks with ATMs near the post office.
Internet access is available for Ikr200 per hour at the library (Map Click here; 488 2040; Ráðhústræti; 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri year-round, plus 11am-2pm Sat Oct-Apr).
Sights
FISKA-OG NÁTTÚRUGRIPASAFN
The Aquarium & Natural History Museum (Map Click here; 481 1997; Heiðarvegur 12; adult/6-13yr Ikr400/200; 11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 3-5pm Sun mid-Sep–mid-May) has an interesting collection of stuffed birds and animals, plus fish tanks of hideous Icelandic fish and a live video link to a puffin colony. The museum acts as a hospital for puffin chicks.
BYGGÐASAFN
Housed in Heimaey library, this folk museum (Byggðasafn; Map Click here; 488 2040; Raðhústræti; adult/6-13yr Ikr400/200; 11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep, by arrangement at other times) has loads of local-history displays, including fascinating photos of Heimaey’s 1973 evacuation. Note the cabinet of Nazi regalia, from Vestmannaeyjar’s short-lived branch of the Nazi Party. The items on display were deposited anonymously at the museum in the middle of the night!
A combined ticket to both museums costs Ikr750/350 per adult/child six to 13 years.
VOLCANIC FILM SHOW
The explosive hour-long show (Map Click here; 481 1045; Heiðarvegur; admission Ikr700; 11am & 3.30pm mid-May–mid-Sep, plus 2pm & 9pm mid-Jun–Aug, by request rest of year) plays at the local cinema, and includes footage of Surtsey, the 1973 eruption and puffin rappelling. The film quality is naturally rather old and snowy, but it’s fascinating stuff.