Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [123]
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BORGARNES
pop 1780
Unassuming Borgarnes guards its convenient position on the Ring Road near the brooding waters of Borgarfjörður. The buzzing petrol station signs may trick you into zooming straight through, but a quick trip into the old town will reveal a lovely bucolic vibe and one of Iceland’s best museums.
Orientation & Information
Travellers arriving from Reykjavík will follow Rte 1 over the fjord bridge into town. After passing a cluster of plazas (containing petrol stations, ATMs and supermarkets), the road forks – head left to reach the town centre (and the Settlement Museum), or go right, continuing along Rte 1, to reach west Iceland’s main tourist information centre ( 437 2214; www.west.is; Sólbakki 2; 9am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-8pm Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, reduced hours Sep-May; ).
Sights
Housed in a wonderfully restored warehouse by the harbour, the must-see Settlement Centre (Landnáms-setur Íslands; 437 1600; www.landnam.is; Brákarbraut 13-15; adult/under 14yr for 1 exhibition Ikr1100/800, for 2 Ikr1600/1100; 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Sep-May) offers a fascinating insight into the history of Icelandic settlement and the Saga era. The museum is divided into two exhibitions, one covering the discovery and settlement of the island and the other recounting the adventures and tales of the man behind Egil’s Saga (see following). This is not your run-of-the-mill Icelandic folk museum – the Settlement Centre offers excellent insight into Iceland’s history and a firm context in which to place your Icelandic visit.
After visiting the museum and eating at its top-notch restaurant (opposite), visit the large rock (borg) at Borg á Mýrum (Rock in the Marshes), the core location in Egil’s Saga, which lies just north of town on Rte 54. The saga recounts the tale of Kveldúlfur, grandfather of the warrior-poet Egill Skallagrímsson, who fled to Iceland during the 9th century after a falling out with the king of Norway. Kveldúlfur grew gravely ill on the journey, however, and instructed his son, Skallagrímur Kveldúlfsson, to throw his coffin overboard after he died and build the family farm wherever it washed ashore – this just happened to be at Borg. Egill Skallagrímsson grew up to be a bloodthirsty individual who killed his first adversary at the age of seven and went on to carry out numerous raids on the coast of England.
The Settlement Museum has marked additional sites featured in Egil’s Saga, including Skallagrímsgarður (Skallagrímsgata), the burial mound of the father and son of saga hero Egill Skallagrímsson.
Back in Borgarnes, up the street from the Settlement Museum, is Brúðuheimar (Puppet World; 551 1620; www.figurentheatre.is, www.vruduheimar.is; adult/child Ikr1400/800, evening shows Ikr3500; 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Sep-May). Situated in a series of restored homes from the 18th century, this brand-new museum features several hands-on exhibits. The puppets bring the Icelandic sagas to life during the popular evening recitals (visit the website for more details).
Beyond the puppet museum is Bjössarólo, a public playground made from a menagerie of previously discarded items.
Sleeping
The following options represent but a smattering of choices in the area. Stop by the information centre for a supplemental list, or try browsing the ubiquitous Áning guide. There’s a campsite (sites per person Ikr750) on the main road (Borgarbraut) connecting the old town and the regional information centre – a ranger comes by in the morning to collect camping fees. Borgarnes is a haven for budgetarians – it isn’t worth making the price leap into the midrange category.
Borgarnes HI Hostel ( 695 3366; www.hostel.is; Borgarbraut 9-13; sb member/nonmember Ikr2100/2600; ) One of the newer links in the HI chain, this no-frills sleeping spot across from the post office gets the job done, but we much prefer the hostel in nearby Akranes.
Hvití Bærinn ( 437 2000; http://hvitibaerinn.is; sb/linen Ikr2500/4200) Set in a restored farmhouse above a golf club and small cafe (mains