Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [125]
Reykholt
Laid-back, postcard pretty and incredibly unassuming, Reykholt is a sleepy kind of place that on first glance offers few clues to its bustling past as one of the most important medieval settlements in Iceland.
To get some insight into the significance of the area, visit the fascinating medieval study centre Snorrastofa ( 433 8000; www.reykholt.is, www.snorrastofa.is; admission Ikr600; 10am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr), devoted to the celebrated medieval historian Snorri Sturluson. The displays here explain the laws, literature, society and way of life in medieval Iceland. Iceland’s oldest documents, the 12th-century deeds to the original church, are also here.
The on-site church features beautiful stained glass, an early Lutheran baptismal font and a 600-year-old organ that was originally installed in Reykjavík’s cathedral. If you’re visiting in late July, look out for information on the annual classical-music festival.
Further on, you’ll come to Snorralaug (Snorri’s Pool), a circular, stone-lined pool fed by a hot spring. The stones at the base of the pool are original, and it is believed that this is where Snorri came to bathe. The wood-panelled tunnel beside the spring leads to the old farmhouse – the site of Snorri’s gruesome murder.
The Reykholt area is also home to Europe’s biggest hot spring, Deildartunguhver, where billowing clouds of steam rise up as scalding water bubbles up from the ground (180L per second!)
The only accommodation in Reykholt proper is Fosshótel Reykholt ( 435 1260, 562 4000; www.fosshotel.is; May-Sep s/d Ikr20,900/22,900, Oct-Apr Ikr12,000/14,000). Housed in a modern block behind the old church, this well-equipped link in the Fosshótel chain has businesslike rooms, a couple of ‘wellness’ hot pots and interesting displays on Norse mythology. The hotel’s restaurant (mains Ikr2000 to Ikr3000) is the only one around, although the nearby petrol station sells sandwiches in summer.
Refer to the handy The Ideal Holiday farm-stay brochure for sleeping options scattered further afield, such as Brennistaðir ( 435 1193; brennist@islandia.is; sb/cottage/apt Ikr2500/9000/13,000), 16km down the valley, which offers three comely cabins along the ravine and a new apartment in the farm’s converted lockhouse.
Mini-golf, playgrounds and stunning waterfall views make the family-oriented campsite at Fossatún ( 433 5800; www.fossatun.is; sites per adult/child Ikr900/400; Jun-Aug; ) one of the best in the country. Fossatún is located on Rte 50 between Borgarnes and Reykholt.
Reykholt is 40km northeast of Borgarnes along Rte 518. Buses from Reykjavík leave at 5pm on Friday and Sunday. In the opposite direction the bus leaves Reykholt at 7.10pm.
Húsafell
Tucked between the river Kaldá and a desolate lava field, the campus of cottages at Húsafell is a popular outdoor retreat for Reykjavík residents. The leisure complex Ferðaþjónustan Húsafelli ( 435 1550; www.husafell.is; sites per person Ikr900, sb Ikr2500, cabins from Ikr8000) is a one-stop shop, with campsite, cabin accommodation, restaurant (mains from Ikr1200) and outdoor geothermal swimming pool (Ikr400/50 adult/child, open 10am to 10pm daily from June to September, weekends only in low season).
There’s no public transport to Húsafell, but twice a week you can get as far as Reykholt from Reykjavík (see left). Hitch or organise a car share in advance on www.semferda.net from there to Húsafell.
Around Húsafell
HALLMUNDARHRAUN
East of Húsafell, along Rte 518, the vast, barren lava flows of Hallmundarhraun make up an eerie landscape dotted with gigantic lava tubes. These long, tunnel-like caves are formed by flows of molten lava beneath a solid lava crust, and they look as though they’ve been burrowed out by some hellish giant worm.
As Rte 518 begins to loop back around, a bright yellow sign marks the turn-off to Arnarvatnsheiði along Rte F578. Make the turn (2WDs can do it too – just take it slow) and follow the bumpy track for 7km until you reach Surtshellir,