Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [156]
STRANDIR COAST
Sparsely populated, magnificently peaceful and all but deserted by other travellers, the eastern coast of the Westfjords is one of the most dramatic places in all of Iceland. Indented by a series of bristle-like fjords and lined with jagged crags, the drive north of Hólmavík, the region’s only sizeable settlement, is rough, wild and incredibly rewarding. South of here, gently rolling hills stretch along the isolated coastline as far as Staðarskáli, where the sudden rush of traffic tells you that you’ve returned to the Ring Road and the travelling masses.
There are buses along the coast as far as Hólmavík and Drangsnes, but you’ll need your own vehicle and a sense of adventure to get further.
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STAÐARSKÁLI TO HÓLMAVÍK
Although lacking the natural drama further north, the long drive from Staðarskáli (formerly Brú) to Hólmavík is pleasantly pastoral, with rolling hills dotted by small farmhouses and lonely churches. If counting sheep doesn’t make you fall asleep, then stop by the small Sheep Farming Museum ( 451 3324; www.strandir.is/saudfjarsetur; adult/under 12yr Ikr700/free; 10am-6pm), which details the region’s farming history through photos and artefacts. Chessboards and coffee may keep you around longer than expected. Nearby, sunbathing seals welcome visitors at Kirkjuból ( 451 3474; www.strandir.is/kirkjubol; sb/s/d Ikr2900/4800/7200), about 12km south of Hólmavík. Rooms are fairly standard but there’s a great guest kitchen and TV room. Two other lodging options – super-friendly Snartartunga ( 451 3362; snartartunga@bigfoot.com; sb Ikr3000, s/d incl breakfast Ikr6000/10,000; Jun–mid-Dec) and the retro starship–styled Broddanes ( 618 1830; www.broddanes.is; sb/linen Ikr3000/4000; ) – are positioned closer to Bitrufjörður along Rte 61.
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HÓLMAVÍK
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The fishing village and service centre of Hólmavík offers sweeping views over the still waters of Steingrímsfjörður and has a quirky witchcraft museum. The town is a good place to stock up on supplies before venturing off into more rugged territory.
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NECROPANTS…
Of all the strange displays at the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft (above), perhaps the most bizarre is a plastic replica of the legendary ‘necropants’ – trousers made from the skin of a dead man’s legs and groin. It was commonly believed that the necropants would spontaneously produce money when worn, so long as the donor made an honest verbal agreement that his corpse could be skinned upon his death. Once dead and buried, the donor corpse had to be unearthed at the dead of night, then a magic rune and a coin from a poor widow (the penniless widows always got picked on in Icelandic lore!) were placed in the dead man’s scrotum.
The necropants brought incredible wealth to its wearer – anytime money was needed, one could reach down into the scrotal area and…voila! There was a catch, however; if you were to die wearing the necropants, your soul would be condemned to roam the earth until the end of time.
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Information
The tourist information centre ( 451 3111; www.holmavik.is/info; Norðurtún 1; 9am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug) is beside the new swimming complex in the modern community centre – the N1 petrol station is across the street. You can access the internet here (Ikr200 for 30 minutes) and pick up copies of the extremely useful Vestfirðir & Dalir #3 & #6 hiking maps for a small fee. There’s a post office and several banks with ATMs around Hafnarbraut, as well as a Vík Garage ( 451 3131; Hafnarbraut 14), which can fix car and tyre damage.
Sights & Activities
Hólmavík’s main tourist attraction is the award-winning Museum of Icelandic Sorcery & Witchcraft ( 451 3525; www.galdrasyning.is; Höfðagata 8-10; adult/under 14yr Ikr700/free; 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep, ring the doorbell mid-Sep–May), by the central harbour. Unlike the widely known Salem witch trials in New England, almost all of Iceland’s convicted witches were men. Most of their occult practices were simply old Viking traditions,