Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [16]
Naturally enough for people living on a remote island in a harsh environment, Icelanders are self-reliant individualists who don’t like being told what to do. The current whaling debate is a prime example. Although most Icelanders wouldn’t dream of eating whale meat, a majority are in support of hunting – a silent sticking-up of two fingers at the disapproving outside world.
Icelanders have a reputation as tough, hardy, elemental types, and it’s true that rural communities are mainly involved in the fishing or farming industries. But don’t think they’re badly educated bumpkins. Iceland has always had a rich cultural heritage and an incredibly high literacy rate, and its people have a passion for all things artistic. This artistic enthusiasm is true of the whole country, but it’s particularly noticeable in downtown Reykjavík. Although people adopt an attitude of cool fatalism, get them talking about something they enjoy and the pessimism falls away. Most young Icelanders play in a band, dabble in art, or write poetry or prose – they’re positively bursting with creative impulses.
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Xenophobe’s Guide to the Icelanders, by Richard Sale, is a compact, humorous look at the Icelandic character and foibles – everything from customs and driving habits to obsession with material possessions.
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This buoyant, confident, have-a-go attitude took a serious knock with the recent economic crisis (see the boxed text). Many young Reykjavík-dwellers used to grumble that there was nothing for them in Iceland: the country was too small, they’d tried everything there was to try, the only option was to emigrate. The financial meltdown has made this gripe a reality – during 2009 there was a 1.6% rise in emigration, with a significant number of younger people leaving to find work in Norway.
But don’t be fooled – their pride might have taken a knock, but Icelanders are quietly, rightfully patriotic. Icelanders who achieve international success (singer Björk, the band Sigur Rós, novelist Halldór Laxness, footballer Eiður Gudjohnsson), winning honour and prestige for their homeland, become heroes. And it’s no coincidence that Icelandair wishes a heartfelt ‘Welcome home!’ to its passengers when the plane touches down at Keflavík.
Town layouts, the former US military base, the popularity of TV programs such as Desperate Housewives, Lost and The Wire, and the prevalence of hot dogs and Coca-Cola point to a heavy US influence, but Icelanders consider their relationship with the rest of Scandinavia to be more important.
Indeed, they have much in common, although Icelanders are not as aloof as their Scandinavian counterparts in Sweden, Norway and Finland. They’re curious about visitors and eager to know what outsiders think of them. ‘How do you like Iceland?’ is invariably an early question. While most Icelanders speak English very well, they’re extremely proud of their language, and to greet them with a little carefully pronounced Icelandic will result in a look of mild surprise (bordering on shock) followed by a broad smile.
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Homer Simpson’s friend and nuclear-plant colleague Carl Carlson was born in Iceland.
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While Icelanders are generally quite reserved and stoical, an incredible transformation comes over them when they party. On Friday and Saturday nights inhibitions are let down, and conversations flow as fast as the alcohol!
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SOCIAL ETIQUETTE
Although Icelanders don’t often stand on ceremony, there are a few simple rules that will pave the way for a smooth trip. It’s important to take your shoes off as soon as you enter a house, and if you’ve been lucky enough to be invited for dinner, it’s a good idea to bring a gift for your host – a bottle of foreign wine is usually welcomed. To make a toast you should say ‘Skál!’, and at