Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [168]
Also worth seeing is Auðunarstofa, a replica of the 14th-century bishop’s residence. Built using traditional techniques and tools, Auðunarstofa houses the current bishop’s office and study room, and has an exhibition of 13th-century chalices, vestments and books in the basement.
At the time of research, a new building was being refurbished to house the Icelandic Horse History Centre ( 455 6300; www.sogusetur.is), which will feature a comprehensive permanent exhibit about Iceland’s unique breed and its role in Iceland’s history.
High on a hill behind the church is Prestssæti, a wonderful vantage point offering great views over the valley.
Ongoing archaeological digs in Hólar can be seen to the right of the road as you drive in – feel free to stop by and ask the friendly diggers about their research.
Sleeping & Eating
Ferðaþjónustan Holum Hjaltadal ( 455 6333; www.holar.is; sb/s/d Ikr3500/6900/7900; Jun-Aug; ) The college accommodation block offers summer stays in the vacant student apartments further afield. Alternatively, wooden cabins in the grounds sleep between two and 12 people and cost from Ikr11,900 per night. There’s also a small campsite (Ikr700 per person) tucked away in the forest. Reception is open from 8am to 10pm. The on-site restaurant specialises in local foods (mains Ikr2850 to Ikr3200) and not-so-local pizza (Ikr1450), and there’s a swimming pool (Ikr350/150 per adult/child under 12 years; open 10am to 8pm). Additional perks include an on-site ATM and an internet terminal (15 minutes for Ikr200).
Getting There & Away
Visiting Hólar is easiest by private vehicle. However, the buses between Siglufjörður and Sauðarkrókur (580 and 580a) do stop here. Buses run in summer every day (except Saturday)– it’s 15 minutes from Sauðarkrókur and one hour from Siglufjörður.
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EASTERN SKAGAFJÖRÐUR
The spectacular eastern coast of Skagafjörður lies along the rugged Tröllaskagi Peninsula. The dramatic scenery is more reminiscent of the Westfjords than the gentle hills that roll through most of northern Iceland. Craggy mountains and gushing rivers are ideal for hikers, and the views out the car window along Rte 76 are nothing short of breathtaking.
Hofsós
pop 180
The sleepy but attractive fishing village of Hofsós has been a trading centre since the 1500s. Today, several restored buildings along the harbour have been turned into the Icelandic Emigration Center (Vesturfarasafnið; 453 7935; www.hofsos.is; adult/under 12yr Ikr1000/free; 11am-6pm Jun-Aug), which explores the reasons behind Icelanders’ emigration to the New World, their hopes for a new life, and the reality of conditions when they arrived. The main exhibition ‘New Land, New Life’ follows the lives of emigrating Icelanders through carefully curated photographs, letters and displays. It’s an interesting place, even if you’re not a descendant of Icelandic emigrants.
Also at the harbour is the historic, black-tarred Pakkhúsið ( by arrangement), a log warehouse built in 1777 by the Danish Royal Greenland Company. It’s one of the oldest timber buildings in Iceland.
American poet Bill Holm, of Windows of Brimnes fame, lived just across from the emigration centre until his death in 2009. Iceland’s most famous religious poet, Hallgrímur Pétursson was born 3km south of the river at Gröf, which has an old turf-roofed church surrounded by a circular turf wall. Call 453 7460 to get in.
If you want to spend the night, the emigration center can handle your accommodation queries. You’ll find sleeping-bag space (Ikr2500) at two simple cottages, Prestbakki and Kárastígur 9, in the village, and cosier digs at Gistiheimilið Sunnuberg ( 453 7310; gisting@hofsos.is; Sudurbraut 8; s/d Ikr6000/8500) opposite the petrol station.
Down at the small harbour among the museum buildings, Sólvík ( 453 7930; mains Ikr1390-3200; 11am-10pm Jun-Aug) is a pleasant country-style restaurant with an assortment of fish dishes and a large ice-cream bar. Enjoy a coffee or a beer on the welcoming summer verandah.
There’s a bank, a post office