Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [182]
If the sound of pounding water puts you to sleep then a night at Fosshóll ( 464 3108; www.nett.is/fossholl; s/d without bathroom Ikr12,500/17,800, with bathroom Ikr16,500/22,800), next to the falls, might be for you. Orbiting the inn is a restaurant – serving a few Icelandic delicacies such as hákarl (putrid shark meat) – a petrol station, money exchange and lovely souvenir shop.
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WESTERN EYJAFJÓRÐUR
Árskógsströnd
The rich agricultural region known as Árskógsströnd runs north along the western shore of Eyjafjörður, from where there are dramatic views across the water to the mountains opposite. It’s the main jumping-off point for those who want to explore little Hrísey offshore.
It’s worth detouring to the village of Hauganes to climb aboard the former fishing boat Niels Jonsson ( 867 0000; www.niels.is; 3hr trips adult/under 15yr Ikr5000/free; Jun-Aug) for a fun-filled adventure that includes fishing and whale watching while taking in the bird-filled scenery. Hauganes is 2km off Rte 82, about 14km south of Dalvík.
Hrísey
pop 180
Iceland’s second-largest offshore island (after Heimaey) is the peaceful, low-lying Hrísey, a thriving community easily reached from the mainland. Thrust out into the middle of Eyjafjörður, the island is especially noted as a breeding ground and protected area for ptarmigan, as well as being home to a flourishing population of eider duck and an enormous colony of Arctic terns.
Traditionally the island was a centre for fish processing and salting, but today most of its inhabitants are employed at the quarantine station for pets and livestock being imported to Iceland.
There’s a small information office ( 695 0077; 1-6pm mid-Jun–Aug) in the Pearl Gallery by the harbour. You can pick up the handy Hrísey brochure here or in Akureyri. The island also has a bank and a post office on the main street of the village.
At the island’s southern end is the picturesque village – a cluster of houses (with two mildly interesting museums) around the harbour linked by cobbled streets frequented by incredibly tame ptarmigan. From here, three marked nature trails loop around the southeastern part of the island and lead to some good clifftop viewpoints.
Most of the northern part of Hrísey is a private ptarmigan and eider-duck sanctuary, and visitors must obtain permission to pass through the area. The cliffs along the northeastern coast are indented by sea caves and the bush areas have reverted to a natural state, having been free of sheep for many years.
Not to be missed are the tons-of-fun tractor trips ( 695 0077; per person Ikr1000), which plough across the island, passing all the important sights.
While a leisurely half-day is enough to explore the island, it’s worth staying overnight for a more authentic glimpse of island life. Try Gistiheimilið Brekka ( 466 1751; brekkahriseyelli@sjallinn.is; Hólabraut; s/d Ikr5500/9000), Hrísey’s one-stop shop for food and accommodation.
Or ask about homestays at the info centre or at Eyjabud, the village store, which also sells a variety of food and souvenirs. Campers can pitch a tent at the campsite ( 466 1769; Skálavegur; sites per person Ikr800; Jun–mid-Sep) near the community centre – wild-camping is prohibited.
The ferry Sævar ( 695 5544) runs between Árskógssandur and Hrísey (15 minutes) 11 times daily between 9am and 11.30pm during summer. A reduced service runs during the rest of the year. Buses from Akureyri connect with the ferries three times daily from Monday to Friday.
On Tuesday and Thursday throughout the year, the Sæfari ferry ( 458 8970; www.saefari.is) runs from Dalvík to Hrísey at 1.15pm (30 minutes), returning immediately after passengers and cargo are discharged and loaded.
Dalvík
pop 1400
Sleepy Dalvík found a snugly spot between breezy Eyjafjörður and the rolling hills of Svarfaðardalur. Most tourists come here to catch the Grímsey ferry (see opposite),