Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [184]
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GRÍMSEY
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Best known as Iceland’s only true piece of the Arctic Circle, the remote island of Grímsey, 41km from the mainland, is a lonely little place where birds outnumber people by about 1000 to one. Believe it or not, Grímsey has been inhabited by humans since the year 1200, and the graves of the first settlers are marked by a pile of stones on the side of the road between the airport and the village. According to legend, it was a Norse fisherman named Grimur who first arrived on the island after falling in love with the daughter of a local troll. Sadly, the troll swiftly met her maker after an accidental encounter with the midnight sun – her petrified remains lie frozen near the island’s pencil-thin church. (The stones are so easily anthropomorphised that you’ll instantly start believing in Iceland’s ‘hidden people’.)
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GRÍMSEY’S CHECKMATE
Although chess is no longer the sacred pastime it once was on Grímsey, the island is still known for its avid players. Historically, failure at chess was equated with failure in life on Grímsey, and the game was taken so seriously that a poor performance was often followed by a messy dive from the cliffs. This enthusiasm and dedication to the game attracted the attention of US millionaire journalist and chess champion Daniel Willard Fiske in the 1870s.
Although he never visited the island, he set himself up as its protector, sending badly needed firewood, financing the island library and bequeathing part of his estate to the community. Grímsey still celebrates Fiske’s birthday on 11 November, and his portrait is on display in the library at the community centre. For more on Grímsey’s unconventional benefactor, read Lawrence Millman’s account of a visit to the island in his book Last Places: A Journey in the North.
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Today, much of Grímsey’s appeal remains mythic in nature. Tourists flock here to snap up their ‘I visited the Arctic Circle’ certificate and pose for a photo with the ‘you’re standing on the Arctic Circle’ monument (which is actually around 20m south of the ‘real’ line). Afterwards, there’s plenty of time to appreciate the windswept setting. Scenic coastal cliffs and dramatic basalt formations make a popular home for 36 different species of sea birds, including the kamikaze Arctic tern. It’s best to hold a stick overhead as you won’t find a tree under which to hide – Grímsey doesn’t have any!
If sleeping in the Arctic Circle sounds too adventurous to pass up, there are two places offering accommodation. Follow the stairs up through the trapdoor at Gullsól ( 467 3190; stellagella15@hotmail.is; sb/linen Ikr2000/2500) to find teeny tiny rooms perched above the island’s gift shop (which opens in conjunction with ferry arrivals). The fully equipped kitchen (microwave, coffee maker etc) is handy for self-caterers. Things are a bit more upmarket at cream-coloured Básar ( 467 3103; gagga@simnet.is; sb/linen Ikr2000/3900) next to the airport. This is the island’s original guest house, and it’s still the only place to get a proper meal. Breakfast/lunch/dinner costs Ikr900/1500/2500. There’s also a free camping ground at the community centre, or you can wild-camp anywhere outside the village. Be mindful of your rubbish as the winds are quite strong.
Getting There & Away
Despite its isolated location, getting to Grímsey is a cinch. From mid-June to late-August, Air Iceland ( 467 3148; www.airiceland.is) flies every day to/from Akureyri. From late March to mid-June and late August to October, flights operate on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday only. The bumpy journey takes in the full length of Eyjafjörður and is an experience in itself. You’ll find one-way fares from around Ikr6000 to Ikr10,000.
In summer the Sæfari ferry ( 458 8970, 853 2211; www.saefari.is) departs from Dalvík for Grímsey at 9am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday,