Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [187]
Another cycle of violent activity over 6000 years later created the Ketildyngja volcano, 25km southeast of Mývatn. The lava from that crater flowed northwest along the Laxárdalur valley, and created a lava dam and a new, improved lake. After another millennium or so a volcanic explosion along the same fissure spewed out Hverfell, the classic tephra crater that dominates the modern lake landscape. Over the next 200 years, activity escalated along the eastern shore and craters were thrown up across a wide region, providing a steady stream of molten material flowing toward Öxarfjörður. The lava dam formed during the end of this cycle created the present Mývatn shoreline.
Between 1724 and 1729 the Mývatnseldar eruptions began at Leirhnjúkur, close to Krafla, northeast of the lake. This dramatic and sporadically active fissure erupted spectacularly in 1984, and by the early ’90s the magma chamber had refilled, prompting experts to predict another big eruption. As yet this hasn’t happened, but it’s really only a matter of time.
In 1974 the area around Mývatn was set aside as the Mývatn-Laxá special conservation area, and the pseudocrater field at Skútustaðir, at the southern end of the lake, is preserved as a national natural monument.
Orientation
The lake is encircled by a 36km sealed road (Rtes 1 and 848), with the main settlement of Reykjahlíð on the northeast corner. A handy information centre is located here, as are several sleeping options for every budget category.
Most of the points of interest are linked by the lake’s looping road, including the diverse lava formation in eastern Mývatn, the cluster of pseudocraters near southern Mývatn, and the bird-friendly marsh plains around western Mývatn.
In northern Mývatn, the Ring Road (Rte 1) veers east, away from ReykjahlíÐ, and takes you over the Námaskarð pass to the Hverir geothermal area. Then, a turn-off to the north (Rte 863) leads to cloudy Krafla, 14km from ReykjahlíÐ.
With your own vehicle this whole area can be explored in a single day, but if you’re using the bus or a bicycle allow two days. If you want to hike and explore more distant mountains and lava fields, allow at least three.
Tours
Tourism reigns supreme at Reykjahlíð and for travellers without their own transport there are numerous tours around the area. Tours fill up fast during summer, so try to book at least a day before departure.
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INTO THE MADDING SWARMS
Plague-like swarms of Mývatn’s eponymous midges are a lasting memory for many visitors to the area in midsummer. As infuriating as they can be, these pesky intruders are a vital food source for wildlife. Their larvae are eaten by brown trout, and both the harlequin duck and Barrow’s goldeneye subsist on them during the nesting season.
Unfortunately for humans, the midges are attracted to carbon dioxide, so every time you exhale, the little buggers gather around your face and invade your eyes, ears, nose and mouth. Mývatn has two types of midge: the small, skinny, mosquito-like mýflugur or rikmý, known to occasionally make kamikaze dives for your lungs; and the fatter, buzzing, hair-loving bitmý (blackfly).
The good news is that only one species bites, so wear a head net (which you can buy for around Ikr500 at the supermarket in ReykjahlíÐ), splash on the repellent and pray for a good wind to send the nasty little blighters diving for shelter amid the vegetation.
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MÝVATN
For an abridged version of Mývatn’s top sights, consider linking up with the 10-hour SBA (http://english.sba.is) tour. It starts in Akureyri, but you can often hop aboard in ReykjahlíÐ.
LOFTHELLIR CAVE
The dramatic lava cave at Lofthellir is a stunning destination with magnificent natural ice sculptures dominating the interior. Although one of Mývatn’s true highlights, the cave can only be accessed on a tour because the cave entrance (suitable only for the svelte) is hard to find along the barren landscape, and special equipment (headlamps,