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Bjarnarflag, 3km east of ReykjahlíÐ, is an active geothermal area where the earth hisses and bubbles, and steaming vents line the valley. Historically, the area has been home to a number of economic ventures attempting to harness the earth’s powers. Early on, farmers tried growing potatoes here, but, unfortunately, these often emerged from the ground already boiled. In the late 1960s, 25 test holes were bored at Bjarnarflag to ascertain the feasibility of a proposed geothermal power station. One is 2300m deep and the steam still roars out of the pipe at a whopping 200°C.

Later a diatomite (microfossil) plant was set up and the skeletal remains of a type of single-cell algae were filtered and purified into filler for fertilisers, paints, toothpastes and plastics. All that remains of the processing plant today is the shimmering turquoise pond that the locals have dubbed the ‘Blue Lagoon’. This inviting puddle is actually quite toxic and should not be confused with the luxurious Mývatn Nature Baths around the corner, which is sometimes called the ‘Blue Lagoon of the North’.

The pastel-coloured Námafjall lies 3km further away (on the south side of the Ring Road). Produced by a fissure eruption, the ridge sits squarely on the spreading zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge and is dotted with steaming vents. A walking trail leads from the highway at Namaskarð pass to a view disc at the summit. This 30-minute climb provides a grand vista over the steamy surroundings. North of the pass is another ridge, Dalfjall, which sports a large and growing notch – dramatic evidence that the mountain is being torn in two by tectonic spreading.

As you tumble down the far side of Námafjall, you’ll suddenly find yourself in the magical, ochre-toned world of Hverir – a lunar-like landscape of mud cauldrons, steaming vents, radiant mineral deposits and piping fumaroles. Belching mudflaps and stench of sulphur stew may sound as charming as a date with Homer Simpson, but Hverir’s ethereal charm grips every passer-by. Be careful though: the lingering stink of sulphur soaks the air, which means that a sudden change in wind direction can leave you shrouded in a juicy cloud of pungent steam. Safe pathways through the features have been roped off, and to avoid risk of serious injury and damage to the natural features, avoid any lighter-coloured soil and respect the ropes.

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KRAFLA

More steaming vents, brightly coloured craters and aquamarine lakes await at Krafla, an active volcanic region 7km north of the Ring Road. Technically, Krafla is just an 818m-high mountain, but the name is now used for the entire area as well as a geothermal power station and the series of eruptions that created Iceland’s most awesome lava field.

The heart of volcanic activity is known as the Krafla central volcano but, rather than a cone-shaped peak, Krafla is a largely level system of north–south trending fissures underlaid by a great magma chamber. Activity is normally characterised by fissuring and gradual surface swells followed by abrupt subsidence, which triggers eruptions. At present, the ground surface is rising, indicating possible activity in the future. The Nordic Volcanological Center (www.norvol.hi.is) tracks the most recent developments.

As the Krafla area is still considered active, a visit will naturally involve some risk. To be safe, avoid lighter-coloured soil (which indicates a live steam vent), mudpots, sharp lava chunks and scoria slopes. Stick to marked trails, and in winter be extremely wary of hidden fissures and avoid any melting snow, which may cover a hot spot.

Kröflustöð

The idea of constructing a geothermal power station at Krafla was conceived in 1973, and preliminary work commenced with the drilling of 24 test holes to determine project feasibility. In December 1975, however, after a rest of several hundred years, the Krafla fissure burst into activity with the first in a series of nine eruptions and 20 cases of surface subsidence. This considerably lowered