Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [197]
After a brief stop-off at Hornafjörður in the south, Garðar arrived at Skjálfandi on the north coast and built a settlement that he called Húsavík. Modestly renaming the country Garðarshólmur (Garðar’s Island), he dug in for the winter. At the advent of spring he prepared to depart, but some of his slaves were left behind. Whether by accident or design, these castaways became Iceland’s first real settlers, pioneering life in a new country and yet uncredited by the history books.
Information
The helpful tourist information centre ( 464 4300; www.husavik.is; Garðarsbraut 5; 8.30am-7pm Jun-Aug) is notorious for changing locations each summer. At the time of research it was located beside the Kasko, opposite the Gentle Giant ticket booth. Plans are underway to move the info centre to the Whale Museum.
Húsavík has a hospital, a post office and other facilities. The Íslandsbanki bank (Stórigarður 1) is opposite the church and has an ATM. There’s internet access at the library ( 464 6165; Stórigarður 17; per 30min Ikr500; 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri).
Sights & Activities
Don’t rush off after your whale-watching trip; Húsavík has a few surprises up its sleeve.
WHALE WATCHING
This is why you came to Húsavík. Over the last decade, the area has become Iceland’s premier whale-watching destination, with up to 11 species coming here to feed in summer. The best time to see whales is between June and August. This is, of course, the height of tourist season, but you’ll have almost a 100% chance of seeing a breaching beast. See the boxed text to learn more about Húsavík’s whales.
Two whale-watching tours operate from Húsavík harbour. The original operator is North Sailing (Norður Sigling; 464 2350; www.northsailing.is; Gamli Baukur, Hafnarstétt), which has a fleet of beautiful old-school boats, including the 20-tonne oak schooner Haukur. Their popular ‘Whales, Puffins & Sails’ tour stops at beautiful Lundey, and overnight trips to Grímsey are possible a few times during the summer. The other company is Gentle Giants (Hvalferðir; 464 1500; www.gentlegiants.is; Garðarsbraut 6), with their flotilla of lovingly restored fishing vessels. Gentle Giants also runs special trips to lovely Flatey – you’ll most likely see whales along the way.
Don’t stress too much over picking an operator; prices are standardised (adult/under 16yr €48/18) and services are comparable. Locals joke that the only differences between companies are the pastries served onboard – one offers cinnamon buns while the other serves kleinur (traditional twisty doughnuts). Trips depart throughout the day (June to August) from 8.30am to 8.30pm and large signs at the ticket booths advertise the next departure time. Boats also run in May, September and October with less frequency.
HÚSAVÍK WHALE MUSEUM
Best visited before you head out on a whale-watching trip, the excellent Húsavík Whale Museum (Hvalamiðstöðin; 414 2800; www.whalemuseum.is; Hafnarstétt; adult/6-14yr Ikr900/450; 9am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm May & Sep) will tell you all you ever needed to know about these gracious creatures. Housed in an old slaughterhouse at the harbour, the museum interprets the ecology and habits of whales, conservation and the history of whaling in Iceland through beautifully curated displays, including several huge skeletons soaring high above (they’re real!).
The museum has a popular volunteer program – visit the website for details. You must apply by the end of February if you are interested in volunteering for the upcoming summer.
ICELANDIC PHALLOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Oh, the jokes are endless here. The unique Icelandic Phallological Museum (Hid Íslanska Reðasafn; 561 6663; www.phallus.is; Héðinsbraut 3a; adult/senior/under 15yr Ikr600/400/free; noon-6pm late May–mid-Sep) houses a bizarre collection of penises. From pickled pickles to petrified wood, there are over 300 different types of family jewels on display. New additions include contributions from a walrus, and the silver castings of each member of the Icelandic handball team. There