• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 1568 0

in Iceland… these particular islands lie in the scenic Skjálfandi bay. Lundey (Puffin Island) dramatically emerges from the sea with a series of high, nest-covered cliffs. It’s a popular breeding ground for several species of seabird including (yeah, you guessed it) puffins. Flatey (Flat Island) lives up to its name, rising only a couple of metres above the waves. Although abandoned during winter, the grassy island hosts a number of charming summer cottages. Popular tours to both islands are available with both of Húsavík’s whale-watching operators – Click here.

* * *

Salka ( 464 2551; Garðarsbraut 6; mains Ikr1650-4300; 11.30am-10pm) Once home to Iceland’s first cooperative, this historic building now houses a popular restaurant serving everything from smoked puffin to pizza. The real speciality here, though, is seafood, with excellent lobster, prawns (shrimp) and salt cod on offer.

Gamli Baukur ( 464 2442; Hafnarstétt; mains Ikr1950-3500; 11.30am-9pm Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu, 11am-3am Fri & Sat) Gamli Baukur is one of those rare places that manages to be both a favourite local hangout and a wonderfully friendly place for tourists. Owned by North Sailing, the lovely timber-framed restaurant-bar serves excellent food (juicy burgers, succulent fish soup and a zingy curry bouillabaisse) and flavourful coffee among shiny nautical relics. Live music and a sweeping terrace makes it the most happenin’ place in northeast Iceland.

Both the N1 and Shell petrol stations have grills selling the usual fast-food fare, while the town bakery Heimabakarí Konditori ( 464 2900; Garðarsbraut 15; 8am-5pm) sells fresh bread, sandwiches and sugary cakes. Kasko supermarket (Garðarsbraut 5; 10am-6.30pm Sun-Thu, to 7pm Fri, to 6pm Sat) is in the centre of town, and there’s a Vín Búð (cnr Garðarsbraut & Miðgarður).

Shopping

Up to your eyeballs in whale souvenirs and fluffy fleeces? Stop by Ískelda Galleri (Garðarsbraut; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat) for something a bit different. Check out the artistic assortment of clothing and accessories (mostly for women) made from locally sourced wools and fish skins. There are no Christmas sweaters here – these are things you’d actually wear! Check out the studio in the back and don’t forget to sign the wall on your way out.

Getting There & Away

There are four daily buses to Akureyri (Ikr2500, 1¼ hours) from June to August. In winter there are four daily buses during the week, two on Sunday and one on Saturday. From mid-June to August there are two daily buses to Reykjahlíð at Mývatn (Ikr2000, 40 minutes). Click here for buses to Ásbyrgi and Þorshöfn. The bus terminal is at the N1 petrol station.

Return to beginning of chapter

TJÖRNES PENINSULA

Heading north from Húsavík along Rte 85 you’ll sweep along the coast of the stubby Tjörnes Peninsula, which separates Skjálfandi from Öxarfjörður.

Fossil-rich coastal cliffs flank the Hallbjarnarstaðaá river mouth 10km north of Húsavík. The cliffs are made up of alternating layers of fossil shells and lignite (a soft brown-black coal), with the oldest layers dating back about two million years. The fossils here are the shells of creatures that are now found only in waters of 12°C or warmer. The present water temperature along Iceland’s Arctic Ocean coast is around 4°C, an indication that the sea here has cooled dramatically over the past two to three million years. You can get to the cliffs by turning off Rte 85 at Ytritunga farm. To put the fossils in context, it’s worth visiting the fossil museum ( 464 1968; adult/under 14yr Ikr500/free; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug), about 2km further up Rte 85 at the farm Hallbjarnarstaðir.

For something a bit quirkier, continue another 10km up the road until you reach the Þórshamar Home Museum ( 464 1957; adult/under 14yr Ikr500/free; 9am-6pm Jun-Aug) at the tip of the peninsula. The eclectic collection contains Viking Age jewellery, as well as a variety of matchboxes, tobacco tins, old photographs and crockery.

Return to beginning of chapter

KELDUHVERFI REGION

Giant cracks, fissures and grabens (depressions between geological