Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [207]
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ÞÓRSHÖFN & AROUND
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The town of Þórshöfn has served as a busy port since Saga times and saw its heyday when a herring-salting station was established here in the early 20th century. Today it’s a modest place but makes a good base for visitors heading to the eerily remote Langanes Peninsula or on to Rauðanes. The rusty church at Sauðaneshús ( 468 1430; 11am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug), 7km north of town, provides excellent insights into how locals lived 100 years ago. It also sells traditional Icelandic pancakes. For tourist information, try the friendly staff at the swimming pool ( 468 1515; adult/child Ikr400/150; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun Sep-May; ) on the Langanes road.
Þórshöfn has a campsite (sites per person Ikr700) and two guest houses, but there’s also the excellent Ytra-Aland ( 468 1290; www.ytra-aland.is; sb Ikr2800, s/d without bathroom Ikr7500/11,000, with bathroom Ikr8500/13,000), located 18km west of town. This friendly farm has adorable rooms in the main house and a new accommodation block with private bathrooms. The sweet smell of pancakes and big smiles greet guests in the morning.
Dining options are slim. Try the unglamorous local haunt Eyrin ( 468 1250; Eyravegur 3; mains Ikr880-3280; 10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri, to 3am Sat), serving a standard assortment of burgers and pasta; or you can self-cater at the Samkaup supermarket ( 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) with a Vin Búð ( 5-6pm Mon-Thu, 4-6pm Fri) inside.
Getting There & Away
Air Iceland ( 570 3030; www.airiceland.is) operates flights to Þórshöfn from Akureyri once daily on weekdays from April to late October. The cheapest one-way fare is Ikr9500 (1¼ hours).
SBA runs a scheduled bus service from Þórshöfn to Raufarhöfn (Ikr1400, one hour), Kópasker (Ikr2600, 1¾ hours), Ásbyrgi (Ikr3500, 2¼ hours) and Húsavík (Ikr5100, 3¼ hours) on weekdays all year round.
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LANGANES
Shaped like a goose with a very large head, foggy Langanes is one of the loneliest corners of Iceland. The peninsula’s remarkably flat terrain, cushioned by mossy meadows and studded with crumbling remains, is an excellent place to break-in your hiking shoes – see the boxed text (opposite) for details.
Rte 869 ends only 17km along the 50km peninsula and, although it’s possible to continue along the track to the tip at Fontur in a 4WD vehicle, parts of the road can be very difficult to navigate.
Before exploring the region, base yourself at the friendly Ytra Lón HI Hostel ( 468 1242; www.visitlanganes.com; sb member/nonmember Ikr2100/2600, sb s/d Ikr4200/6800, s/d Ikr12,000/16,000), 14km northeast of Þórshöfn and just off Rte 869. It’s part of a working sheep farm run by a young family. In winters, the owners are happy for guests to help out on the farm when sheep come in from the pasture. The rooms are clean and bright, and there’s a comfy common area, trampoline and hot pot. At the time of research, new cargo containers were being transformed into quirky studio summer cabins. Breakfast is available for Ikr1000 – you can also buy fresh lamb to cook in the well-equipped guest kitchen.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can phone ahead to Ytra Lón and the owners will pick you up at the bus station in Þorsförn (Ikr1000 per person). Or you can hike from the bus station to Langanes using the ‘Back Road’, which ends at Hóll. From there, follow the marked trail (Trail 10 on the Útivist & afþreying map) in a northeasterly direction (left) until you reach Ytra Lón. The hike takes just over three hours if you are travelling light.
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HIKE TO THE END OF THE EARTH
Abandoned farms, lonely lighthouses and craggy windswept cliffs – there are few places in the world that feel as remote as Langanes (opposite). The following three-day itinerary makes for a rewarding journey with nary a hill or tourist in sight. If you plan on doing any part of this hike,