Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [210]
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East Iceland
* * *
INLAND
EGILSSTAÐIR
NORTH OF EGILSSTAÐIR
SOUTH OF EGILSSTAÐIR
WEST OF EGILSSTAÐIR
THE EASTFJORDS
BORGARFJÖRÐUR EYSTRI (BAKKAGERÐI)
AROUND BORGARFJÖRÐUR EYSTRI
SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR
AROUND SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR
MJÓIFJÖRÐUR
REYÐARFJÖRÐUR
ESKIFJÖRÐUR
NESKAUPSTAÐUR (NORÐFJÖRÐUR)
FÁSKRÚÐSFJÖRÐUR
STÖÐVARFJÖRÐUR
BREIÐDALSVÍK
BREIÐDALSVÍK TO DJÚPIVOGUR
DJÚPIVOGUR
AROUND DJÚPIVOGUR
* * *
In 1728 a fire tore through central Copenhagen, charring everything in its path. But before it incinerated the precious library of Icelandic sagas, a quick-thinking bibliophile jumped inside to rescue the unique tomes. Almost all the sagas were saved from the blaze, but tragically the volume with east Iceland’s ancient tales was lost, forever shrouding the region in mystery.
This air of intrigue and obscurity is still apt today. The region doesn’t announce itself as loudly as other parts of the country, preferring subtle charms instead of big-ticket attractions.
The Eastfjords is the area’s most delightful destination. On fine days there’s nothing better than climbing a hillside, plonking yourself down in the heather and watching the cobalt blue waters as the fishing boats head home with their catch. The scenery is particularly dramatic around the northern fjord villages, backed by sheer-sided mountains covered in toppling streams and waterfalls. If the weather’s fine, several days spent hiking or kayaking here may be some of your most memorable in Iceland.
Away from the coast, the country’s longest lake, allegedly the home of a huge wormlike monster, stretches southwest from Egilsstaðir. On its eastern shore you’ll find the country’s largest forest – a source of great pride to tree-starved Icelanders. Head further inland and you’ll come to the forgotten farms, fells and heathlands of the empty east.
Most people simply hit the accelerator and follow the overeager Ring Road as it ploughs through Egilsstaðir and out of the region. Thank those travellers for their urgency – it leaves a largely tourist-free corner of the country for more curious bods to explore.
* * *
HIGHLIGHTS
Arrive in the country in style: sail up a lovely, long fjord to the bohemian village Seyðisfjörður
Rummage through Petra Sveinsdóttir’s massive mineral collection in Stöðvarfjörður then visit the mysterious spar mine in Eskifjörður to see where it all came from
Chat with the hidden people, snap photos of puffin posses and daydream among the rhyolite cliffs in Borgarfjörður Eystri
Learn the true definition of tranquil isolation in ruin-strewn Mjóifjörður or verdant Skálanes
Drive through craggy mountain passes and skinny tunnels until you reach oddball Neskaupstaður
* * *
Getting There & Around
The East Iceland tourism website (www.east.is) is set to be uploaded with relevant transport information for the area during the life of this book.
AIR
In summer Air Iceland (Flugfélag Íslands; 471 1210; www.airiceland.is) flies about three times daily from Egilsstaðir to Reykjavík (Ikr7500 to Ikr15,700, one hour).
BUS
Egilsstaðir is a major crossroads on the Ring Road, so all buses pass through here. The main bus stop is located by the campsite and information centre.
From June to mid-September SBA (http://english.sba.is) runs a daily bus between Akureyri and Egilsstaðir, calling at Mývatn en route. It departs from Akureyri at 8.30am, and from Egilsstaðir at 1.15pm. The journey takes 3¾ hours and costs Ikr6700 one way. Between mid-September and May a service runs on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, departing at different times – see the latest schedule online.
For Egilsstaðir–Höfn buses, Click here.
Ferðaþjónusta Austurlands ( 472 1515) runs a minibus–post van between Egilsstaðir and Seyðisfjörður (Ikr1000, about 30 minutes). Between the beginning of June and mid-September it leaves Seyðisfjörður