Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [212]
In summer the boat Lagarfljótsormurinn pootles along pretty lake Lagarfljót. Unfortunately, although there’s a terminus at the bridge in Fellabær, you can’t actually catch a ride from there; passengers must set off from the Atlavík campsite, 30km southwest of town – Click here.
Festivals & Events
If you are here in early November, stop by for the unusual 10-day Dagar Myrkurs (Days of Darkness), when the town perversely celebrates the failing light and the onset of winter with dark meals, dark dances, ghost stories, star walks, northern lights spotting, and torch-lit processions! When life gives you lemons…
Around the third weekend in June, Egilsstaðir’s annual jazz festival DjasshátíÐ Egilsstaða (www.jea.is) takes place at various venues in the area.
The possible existence of the lake monster Lagarfljótsormurinn is a good excuse for a weeklong cultural festival, Ormsteiti, during late August.
Sleeping
Egilsstaðir campsite ( 471 2320; www.east.is; Kaupvangur 10; sites per person Ikr900; ) Camping pitches are in utilitarian rows, but facilities are good – there’s a kitchen and a washing machine (Ikr600). A dormitory building has sleeping-bag accommodation.
Skipalækur ( 471 1324; skipalaekur@simnet.is; sites per person Ikr650, sb/linen per person Ikr2300/4600, d with bathroom from Ikr12,000, chalet from Ikr9000 May-Sep, discounts rest of year) In Fellabær, across the river from Egilsstaðir, this farmhouse has accommodation to suit all purses. There’s a small camping area, two fairly noisy prefab cabins with sleeping-bag accommodation, some rooms in a funny ’70s-decorated house, and quirky, self-contained family-sized A-frame chalets lining the lake. All accommodation has access to showers, a kitchen, and a sitting room of some description.
Eyvindará ( 471 1200; eyvindara2@simnet.is; d with/without bathroom Ikr16,000/13,000, cabin Ikr14,500; ) Set 4km away with good views back into town, serene Eyvindará is a lovely place to call home during your visit to east Iceland. A collection of prim country cabins and newly finished motel units sits hidden along a tree-lined escarpment dotted with fragrant blueberry blooms. Discounted sleeping-bag accommodation is available out of season. Breakfast is included.
Hotel Edda ( 444 4000; off Tjarnarbraut; www.hoteledda.is; s/d Ikr14,200/17,600; Jun–mid-Aug) Based in the school opposite the swimming pool, this is a typical Edda hotel. Rooms have private bathrooms, and there’s a bar and restaurant with panoramic views.
Gistiheimilið Egilsstaðir ( 471 1114; www.egilsstadir.com; s/d Ikr13,700/18,200 May-Sep, Ikr8900/10,900 Oct-Apr; ) The town was named after this splendid heritage guest house and farm, on the banks of Lagarfljót, 300m west of the crossroads. Its sensitively renovated en-suite rooms retain a real sense of character, and are decorated with antique furniture – ask for one with a lake view. Breakfast (included) is in the lakeside dining room, which serves a splurge-worthy (€30) steak dinner nightly (right).
Hótel Hérað ( 471 1500; herad@icehotels.is; Miðvangur 5-7; s/d Ikr15,000/18,700 Jun-Aug, Ikr14,000/16,800 Sep-May; ) This three-star Icelandair hotel is the plushest in town. It’s been hugely expanded since work began on the hydroelectricity project; a whole wing contains brand-new parquet-floored rooms, with satellite TV, bathrooms and buffet breakfast included. The stylish restaurant (open from 6pm to 9pm; mains cost from Ikr2600 to Ikr5900) is bathed in creamy whites and covered with hip Impressionist paintings – it’s a good place to indulge. The house speciality is reindeer steak.
Hotel Egilsstaðir ( 471 2830; www.hringhotels.is; Skógarlönd 6; s/d incl breakfast €126/148 mid-May–Oct; ) Fresh touches are turning this expensive option into a more palatable choice than its previous incarnation. But with any luck you’ll get one of the unrenovated rooms – it’s like sleeping in the former Soviet Union!
Eating
Café Valný ( 471 2219; Miðvangur; 11am-6pm; ) This little coffee shop is a snug place in which to update your blog. Cartons