Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [214]
Húsey
The only reason to venture out to the isolated farm at Húsey, 60km north of Egilsstaðir near the shores of Héraðsflói, is to stay at the friendly Húsey HI Hostel ( 471 3010, 847 8229; www.husey.de; sb/linen €26/35). It has beautiful horses to ride (two-hour tours start at 10am and 5pm daily; €38) and there are curious seals cavorting in the riverine backdrop. The hostel has cooking facilities but there’s nowhere to buy food, so bring supplies. Breakfast (€9) can be ordered. Book well in advance, and ask about pick-up options if you don’t have your own vehicle.
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SOUTH OF EGILSSTAÐIR
Lagarfljót
The grey-brown waters of the river-lake Lagarfljót are reputed to harbour a fearsome monster, Lagarfljótsormurinn (Lagarfljót Worm), which has allegedly been spotted since Viking times. The last ‘sighting’ was in 1987, when it was glimpsed coiled up in an inlet at Atlavík campsite. The poor old beast must be pretty chilly – Lagarfljót starts its journey in the Vatnajökull ice cap and its glacial waters flow north to the Arctic Ocean, widening into a 38km-long, 50m-deep lake, often called Lögurinn, south of Egilsstaðir.
Whether you see a monster or not, it’s quite a lovely stretch of water, which can be circumnavigated by car. Rte 931, a mixture of sealed surfaces and gravel, runs all the way around the edge from Egilsstaðir–Fellabær – a distance of 56km. There’s no public transport, and traffic is light on the western shore if you’re planning to hitch.
The eastern shore is thick with birch and fir trees: Hallormsstaðaskógur (below) is Iceland’s largest forest and a site of reverential pilgrimage for Icelanders. In summer you can take a pleasure cruise from the popular campsite there.
Hallormsstaðaskógur
The sequoia! The giant redwood! The mighty Scots pine! These are the trees you won’t see in Iceland’s biggest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur. Although the country’s coppices are comical to many foreigners (Q: What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest? A: Stand up.), it’s rude to snigger. Hallormsstaðaskógur is king of the woods and venerated by the arborically challenged nation.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Although the forest is small by most countries’ standards, it’s also quite cute – and a leafy reprieve after the stark, bare mountainsides to the north and south of Egilsstaðir. Common species include native dwarf birch and mountain ash, as well as 50 tree species gathered from around the world. Iceland’s oldest larch colony, Guttormslundur, 2.5km south of Hótel Hallormsstaður, was planted in 1938; some of the trees are now 20m high!
Between mid-June and August, the 110-passenger cruise ship Lagarfljótsormurinn ( 471 2900; www.ormur.is; per person Ikr2000; 9pm daily) runs from Atlavík campsite to Egilsstaðir and back again.
You can arrange horse-riding tours at Hestaleiga ( 847 0063; 10am-7pm mid-Jun–Aug) at the hut by Hússtjórnarskólinn summer hotel. The same people also rent out pedal boats, rowing boats and canoes from Atlavík campsite.
SLEEPING
Atlavík campsite ( 849 1461; sites per person Ikr750) Down the hill, close to the lakeshore, is this beautiful and extremely popular campsite, named after the first settler in this area, Graut-Atli. It’s often the scene of raucous parties on summer weekends. Showers cost Ikr200. The smaller, quieter Þurshofðavík campsite is just north of the petrol station.
Hótel Hallormsstaður ( 471 2400; www.hotel701.is; new bldg s/d Ikr14,200/19,900, red roofs s/d from Ikr9000/12,000, Glái Hundurinn s/d from Ikr9000/12,000) A veritable campus of buildings hidden amongst the trees, Hótel Hallormsstaður offers lodging options for most wallets. There’s a brand-new reception building with inviting modern rooms, a schoolhouse enlivened with cartoon doodles, and the timber-framed Grey Dog (Glái Hundurinn) building further along. There’s also a playground, bicycle rentals (Ikr3600 per day) and a swimming pool ( 10am-noon & 2-7pm mid-Jun