Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [241]
Some other of Grímsvötn’s creations include the Ásbyrgi canyon (Click here), gouged out by a cataclysmic flood over just a few days. In 1934 an eruption released a jökulhlaup of 40,000 cu metres per second, which swelled the river Skeiðará to 9km in width and laid waste large areas of farmland.
Grímsvötn erupted again in December 1998, and most recently in November 2004, when a five-day eruption threw steam and ash 12km into the atmosphere, disrupting air traffic. There was no jökulhlaup on either occasion.
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History
The historical Skaftafell was a large farm at the foot of the hills west of the present campsite. Shifting glacial sands slowly buried the fields and forced the farm to be moved to a more suitable site, on the heath 100m above the sandar. The district came to be known as Hérað Milli Sandur (Land Between the Sands), but after all the farms were annihilated by the 1362 eruptions, the district became the ‘land under the sands’ and was renamed Öræfi (Wasteland). Once the vegetation returned, however, the Skaftafell farm was rebuilt in its former location.
Skaftafell National Park was founded in 1967 by the Icelandic government and the WWF. In June 2008, it was merged with the Jökulsárgljúfur National Park to form the massive wilderness area of Vatnajökull National Park.
Information
The newly renovated, helpful visitor centre ( 478 1627; www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is; 8am-9pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-7pm early Jun & late Aug, 10am-4pm Apr, May & Sep; ) has an information desk with free brochures and maps for sale, good informative displays on the Öræfi area, a fascinating film about the 1996 Grímsvötn jökulhlaup (shown in peak season only), exhibitions, a cafe and internet access (per 20/40/60 minutes Ikr400/700/1000). The staff here really know their stuff.
The Icelandic Mountain Guides and the Glacier Guides both have summer-opening huts (open from around 8.30am to 8pm, April to August) in the car park at Skaftafell visitor centre, where you can talk to knowledgeable experts and get kitted out for glacier walks – Tours for details.
All flora, fauna and natural features of the park are protected, open fires are prohibited and rubbish must be carried out. In the busy area around Skaftafellsheiði, stick to the tracks to avoiding damaging delicate plant life.
Don’t get too close to glaciers or climb on them without the proper equipment and training – the average ice-block calving off Skaftafellsjökull would crush anyone within a few metres of the face.
Although it’s not the best map in the world, the thematic map of Skaftafell published by Ferðakort ( 562 3376; www.ferdakort.is) shows the nonglacial area of the park at 1:25,000 and the Öræfi district at 1:100,000 (2002). It’s available at the visitor centre (Ikr1230) and in bookshops and tourist offices elsewhere in Iceland.
Sights
The traditional turf-roofed farmhouse Sel (admission free), built in Burstir style in 1912, is worth a glance. There’s not much inside, but it’s always open and the hill just above offers a good photo opportunity of the farmhouse and the grey sandar stretching out to the coast.
Activities
Skaftafell is ideal for day hikes and also offers longer hikes through its wilderness regions. Most of Skaftafell’s visitors keep to the popular routes on Skaftafellsheiði. Hiking in other accessible areas, such as upper Morsárdalur and Kjós, requires more time, motivation and effort.
Wild camping is not allowed in the park. Compulsory camping permits (Ikr850) for Kjós are available from the information centre. Also inquire about river crossings along your intended route.
SVARTIFOSS
Star of a hundred postcards, Svartifoss is a gloomy waterfall flanked by black basalt columns. It’s reached by an easy track leading up from the campsite (about 1½ hours return). However, due to immense pressure in this area of the park, rangers are encouraging visitors to explore elsewhere. If you do go to Svartifoss, it’s worth continuing west up the