Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [247]
Skálafell ( 478 1041; skalafell@simnet.is; sb Ikr3200, d Ikr14,700-18,600) At the foot of the Skálafell glacier, this friendly working farm has a couple of rooms in the quaint family farmhouse and three two-bedroom cabins. There are no cooking facilities, but breakfast and dinner are available. The owners have set up a marked walking trail from the farm to Skálafellsjökull, complete with little information boards about local lore and legends.
Brunnhóll ( 478 1029; brunnholl@brunnholl.is; s without bathroom Ikr8,300, s/d with bathroom from Ikr10,300/16,500; Apr-Oct; ) A gorgeous farm property 30km from Höfn on the southern side of the Ring Road, Brunnhóll has a cosy guest house and a bright, glassed-in dining room where breakfast is served. Rooms with glacier views cost around Ikr2000 extra. The good folk at Brunnhóll are also the makers of Jöklaís (Glacier Icecream), which you can buy at the farm.
Café Hali ( 867 2900; www.hali.is; Hali í Suðursveit; mains around Ikr2900; cafe open from 9am daily, dinner 7-9pm Jun-early Sep) The Þórbergssetur museum and cultural centre contains this tremendously civilised cafe-restaurant, where you can linger over a latte, or try local specialities such as lamb soup and freshly-caught trout.
Return to beginning of chapter
HÖFN
pop 1640
Although it’s no bigger than many European villages, the southeast’s main town feels like a sprawling metropolis after driving through the wastelands on either side. Its setting is stunning; on a clear day wander down to the waterside, find a quiet bench and just gaze at Vatnajökull and its brotherhood of glaciers.
* * *
RIDING ON THE VATNAJÖKULL ICE CAP
Although the Vatnajökull ice cap and its attendant glaciers look spectacular from the Ring Road, most travellers will be seized by a wild desire to get even closer.
However, access to Vatnajökull is limited to commercial tours…unless you happen to be set up for a serious polar-style expedition. The ice cap is riven with deep crevasses, which are made invisible by coverings of fresh snow, and there are often sudden, violent blizzards. But don’t be disheartened! It’s a mind-blowing experience just to get near the glacier, and you can travel way up into the whiteness on organised snowmobile and 4WD tours.
The easiest route up to Vatnajökull is the F985 4WD track (about 40km east of Jökulsárlón, 55km west of Höfn) to the broad glacial spur Skálafellsjökull. The 16km-long road is practically vertical in places, with iced-over sections in winter. Please don’t even think of attempting it in a 2WD car – you’ll end up with a huge rescue bill.
At the top, 840m above sea-level, is the Jöklasel hut ( 11.15am-5pm Jun–mid-Sep) with a cafe that must have the most epic views in Iceland. On a clear day you can see 10km across the ice cap to towering snowcapped peaks and south towards the ocean – it’s like being on top of the world.
From here, the most popular tour option is the one-hour skidoo ride (per person Ikr10,500). You get kitted out with overalls, boots and gloves, then play follow-the-leader along a fixed trail. It’s great fun, and, although it only gives you the briefest introduction to glacier travel, an hour of noisy bouncing about with the stink of petrol in your nostrils is probably enough for most people! Prices are per person, with two people to a skidoo – there’s Ikr6500 extra to pay if you want a skidoo to yourself. You can also take a more sedate super-Jeep ride up onto the ice. It’s also possible to do longer trips to Breiðamerkurjökull, Grímsvötn, Kverkfjöll, Öræfajökull and Snæfell, as well as cross-country skiing tours (Ikr25,000 per person).
If you don’t have your own 4WD transport, from June to August two glacier companies can drive you up to the Jöklasel hut:
Glacier Jeeps ( 478 1000; www.glacierjeeps.is) At 9.30am and 2pm daily this company collects people in a super-Jeep from the