Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [251]
At the western end of Lón, the commanding 575m-high peak Vesturhorn and its companion Brunnhorn form a cape between Skarðsfjörður and Papafjörður. Ruins of the fishing settlement Syðri-Fjórður, which was abandoned in 1899, are still visible, and just south of it are the more intriguing ruins of Papatóttir.
There are many easy day hikes in the hills and valleys north of Stafafell, and longer hikes towards the southeast of Vatnajökull. Some of these walks require substantial river crossings, so use extreme caution, especially in warm or wet weather. For hiking in Lónsöræfi, the best maps are the Hornafjörður 1:100,000 (1986), Hamarsfjörður 1:100,000 (1987) and Snæfell 1:100,000 (1988) topo sheets.
Hiking
REYÐARÁRTINDUR
This four-hour walk begins 7km east of Stafafell. From the road, it ascends the eastern side of the Reyðará valley and circumnavigates the peak Reyðarártindur, returning to the Ring Road via the valley Össurárdalur, 11km east of Stafafell. Across the Ring Road near the start of this walk is a view disc that names some of the visible natural features.
HVANNAGIL
This is perhaps the best of the day hikes, a well-marked four- or five-hour walk from Stafafell to Hvannagil, at the end of the road on the eastern bank of the Jökulsá í Lóni. Head up this dramatic rhyolite valley and, after less than 1km, you’ll see a sheep track climbing the ridge on your right. At the top of this ridge you’ll have a view down Seldalur. Keep to the left side of this valley until you pass the side valley, Raftagil, which descends back to the Jökulsá í Lóni. You can pick your way down Raftagil or follow the ridge above the eastern side of Seldalur.
TRÖLLAKRÓKUR
This trip begins at the Illikambur parking area (about 20km north of Stafafell), accessible along 4WD Rte F980. From there, it’s five or six hours to Egilssel hut at Tröllakrókur, an area of bizarre wind-eroded pinnacles. Above, you can see the tongue of Öxárfellsjökull, the eastern extreme of the Vatnajökull ice cap. Allow two days for the return trip.
JÖKULGILSTINDAR
This two-day trip climbs up to the 1313m-high ice cap Jökulgilstindar. Begin by walking from Stafafell up the 4WD track along the eastern bank of Jökulsá í Lóni, then continue up the valley through the Austurskógar woods toward Hnappadalur. You can either continue up to the headwaters of Hnappadalur or climb steeply to Jökulgilstindar from a short way up the valley. The top has a glacier, and hikers should be experienced with glacier travel before venturing onto the ice.
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TOURS
Mountain bus tours may run into the Lónsöræfi area in summer 2010. Ask for up-to-date information at the Höfn tourist office (Click here).
Ferðafélag Íslands ( 568 2533; www.fi.is; Mörkin 6, Reykjavík) have several guided walks in Lónsöræfi, for example, a four-day trip from Múladalur to Stafafell (Ikr35,000).
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SLEEPING
Stafafell ( 478 1717; www.eldhorn.is/stafafell; sb Ikr2500, cottages per night Ikr7000, reduced rate for longer stays) Sleeping-bag accommodation is available in one of the farm buildings; there’s also a campsite (per person Ikr600) and cottages for hire with kitchen, lounge and TV. There’s no food, so bring your own – the nearest shop is 25km away in Höfn.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses between Höfn and Egilsstaðir pass Stafafell.
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The Highlands
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KJÖLUR ROUTE (KJALVEGUR)
SPRENGISANDUR ROUTE
ÖSKJULEIÐ ROUTE (ASKJA WAY)
GÆSAVATNALEIÐ ROUTE
KVERKFJÖLL ROUTE
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Wandering through Iceland’s highlands will give you a new understanding of the word ‘desolation’. You may have travelled the Ring Road thinking that Iceland is light on towns; that sheep seem to outnumber people; that you haven’t run across