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stations around Iceland, but in the highlands you should check fuel levels and the distance to the next station before setting off on a long journey. Unleaded petrol costs about Ikr184 to Ikr189 per litre, diesel about Ikr174 to Ikr179 per litre. Leaded petrol isn’t available. Most smaller petrol stations are unstaffed; swipe your credit card in the machine, enter the maximum amount you wish to spend and fill up. You will only be charged for the cost of the fuel put into your vehicle. It’s a good idea to check that your card will work by visiting a staffed station while it is open, just in case you have any problems (American credit cards do not have a pin and thus might not work).

Icelandic roads can be pretty lonely, so carry a jack, a spare tyre and jump leads just in case. Although the Icelandic motoring association Félag Íslenskra Bifreiðaeigenda (FÍB; 414 9999; www.fib.is; Borgartún 33, Reykjavík) is only open to residents of Iceland, if you have breakdown cover with an automobile association affiliated with ARC Europe you may be covered by the FÍB – check with your home association.

Hire

Travelling by car is often the only way to get to parts of Iceland. Although hire-car rates are expensive by international standards, they compare favourably against bus or internal air travel within the country. The cheapest cars on offer, usually a Toyota Yaris or similar, cost around Ikr20,000 per day. Figure on paying around Ikr45,000 for a 4WD. Rates include unlimited mileage and VAT. You’d think that with such high prices it would be easy to find a car. Think again. In the height of summer many dealerships completely run out of rentals.

To rent a car you must be 20 years old (25 years for a 4WD) and you will need to show a valid licence. Be sure to check the small print, as additional costs such as extra insurance, airport pick-up charges and one-way rental fees can really rack up.

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F ROADS

We can think of a few choice F words for these bumpy, almost nonexistent tracts of land, but in reality the ‘F’ stands for fjall – the Icelandic word for mountain. Most F roads only support 4WDs and, while some of them may almost blend into the surrounding nature, off-road driving is strictly prohibited everywhere in Iceland. Before tackling any F road you should educate yourself as to what lies ahead (river crossings, boulders etc) and whether or not the entire route is open. www.vegagerdin.is for road closure details.

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There are more than 50 registered car-hire companies in Iceland. If you are arriving in Iceland without any prior rental-car arrangements, it’s worth looking around and asking at your accommodation if they have any discounts. The following options are based in the Reykjavík and Keflavík areas (this list is not exhaustive) – agencies in other locations around the country can be found within the relevant destination chapters. Passengers entering Iceland via Seyðisfjörður will find car-hire agencies in nearby Egilsstaðir (Click here).

ALP ( 562 6060; www.alp.is; Dugguvogur 10, IS-104 Reykjavík)

Átak ( 554 6040; www.atak.is; Smiðjuvegur 1, IS-200 Kópavogur)

Avis ( 591 4000; www.avis.is; Knarrarvogi 2, IS-104 Reykjavíik) Also located at Reykjavík Domestic Airport and Keflavík International Airport.

Bílaleiga Akureyrar/Höldur – National ( 568 6915, 425 0300; www.holdur.is/en; Skeifan 9, IS-109 Reykjavík) Also at Keflavík International Airport.

Budget ( 551 7570, 562 6060, 421 5551; www.budget.is; Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, IS-101 Reykjavík) Also at Reykjavík Domestic Airport and Keflavík International Airport.

Dalfoss ( 561 3553; www.dalfoss.is; Sóleyjargata 31, IS-101 Reykjavík)

Hasso ( 555 3330, 421-6277; www.hasso.is; Smiðiuvegur 34, IS-200 Kópavogur) Also based at Iðavellir 8, IS-230 Reykjanesbær.

Hekla ( 590 5000; www.hekla.is; Laugavegur 170-174, IS-105 Reykjavík)

Hertz ( 522 4420, 522 4430; www.hertz.is) Branches at Reykjavík Domestic Airport and Keflavík International Airport.

Saga ( 421 3737; www.sagacarrental.is) Keflavík International Airport.

Insurance

If you are bringing your