Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [30]
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ICELAND’S UNOFFICIAL FOODIE TOUR
Inspired by a visit to Italy, master chef Friðrik and his wife Adda opened Friðrik V in Akureyri – a restaurant dedicated to Slow Food and locally sourced products. Friðrik’s staunch insistence on purely Icelandic meals has earned him a great deal of respect throughout the nation and abroad.
While nibbling on a couple of his signature dishes (we could write a love poem to his skyr brulée) Friðrik gave us the skinny on where to fatten up. And thus the ‘Unofficial Foodie Tour’ was born, which rings around Iceland much like our destination chapters:
Reykjavík, the logical starting point, is a culinary treasure trove, so go ahead and peruse the eating section Click here to see what tickles your fancy. We will, however, give Dill ( 552 1522; Sturlugata 5; 11.30am-2pm & 7-10pm), at Alvar Aalto’s Nordic House, a special shout out for it’s fresher-than-fresh daily specials.
From Reykjavík, head north to the town of Borgarnes in west Iceland. In general, museums don’t usually have stellar food, but the on-site restaurant at the must-see Settlement Centre continues the sensory journey back through time. The selection of traditional eats – such as the buttery fish stew – goes well with the animated retelling of Egil’s Saga.
There are plenty of tasty treats in the Westfjords, especially in Ísafjörður. It seems that these days most tourists are eating at the atmospheric Tjöruhisið (Tar House), but Potturinn, the restaurant in Hótel Ísafjörður, has some of the best food around town, in spite of its ‘I went to IKEA’ decor. The fish comes in fresh from the docks every afternoon, and their puffin is exquisite.
Back on the Ring Road, you’ll find Skagafjörður, a region known for its horse breeding. Over the last few years, the Slow Food Movement has really gained some momentum here, and, as weird as it may seem, you won’t find better foal anywhere else in the country. The restaurant in Hótel Varmahlið is your best bet. Nay-sayers (wink!) can try the lamb – the hotel manager also runs a sheep farm, so you’ll be sampling some of her stock.
Then, go straight to Friðrik V in Akureyri, where you’ll visit local farms and collect fresh produce with the owners during one of their gourmet safaris.
Hótel Norðurljós, in oft-ignored Raufarhöfn, is a true hidden gem. The owner has a real knack for expanding the definition of local food – ask about his seaweed pesto made from scurvywort plant!
On the south side, don’t forget to stop in Höfn, Iceland’s lobster capital. Drive-through service is available if you’re in a rush – you’ll find tasty langoustines in designer bento boxes.
And finally, as you make your way back to Reykjavík, take a slight dessert detour at Lindin – home to the best chocolate mousse in the world!
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Petrol stations and supermarkets sell the weak and watery 2.2% brew known as pilsner, but most Icelanders would sooner not drink it at all.
The three main brands of Icelandic beer – Egil’s, Thule and Viking – are all fairly standard lager or pils brews; you can also get imported beers such as Carlsberg and (in Irish bars) Guinness. A pint of beer in a pub costs about Ikr700; a glass of house wine or a shot of spirits in a restaurant costs Ikr600 to Ikr1000.
The traditional Icelandic alcoholic brew is brennivín (literally ‘burnt wine’), a potent schnapps made from potatoes and caraway seeds, with the foreboding nickname svarti dauði (black death).
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WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Restaurants
Most of Iceland’s best restaurants are in Reykjavík, but there are several magnificent finds popping up beyond the capital. Bear in mind that the price difference between an exceptional restaurant