Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [38]
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Many locals identify Kárahnjúkar as one of the major triggers of the currency crash in October 2008. Foreign loans flooded the country during construction and contractors created housing for thousands upon thousands of projected workers who ultimately never came.
The dam and smelter are a dramatic illustration of the dilemma Iceland now faces with the currency currently in the doldrums. How will Icelanders earn their living in the future – through tourism and thriving cultural industries, or by opening up vast tracts of their wilderness to industrial megaprojects?
While the Kárahnjúkar project steals most of the headlines, many other areas of Iceland are subject to proposed dam projects, aluminium plants and smelters. In east Iceland, Eyjabakkar, the country’s second-largest highland wetlands, has been partially submerged as a result of the extensive Kárahnjúkar damming; Kerlingarfjöll, southwest of Hofsjökull, is to be harnessed for its geothermal energy; north Iceland’s Skálfandafljót, with its magnificent waterfalls Aldeyjarfoss and Goðafoss, sits directly in the path of the Bakki smelter and has been targeted as a possible site for future damming; the glacial rivers of Skagafjörður and Jökulsá á Fjöllum are potential power sources; on the serene northwestern tip of Reykjanes Peninsula construction of a new smelter has started; and Langisjór, at the western edge of Vatnajökull, is set to receive the redirected water flows from the Skafta and Tungnaá Rivers, transforming the lake into a reservoir-like expanse.
Many Icelanders understand the value of their virgin lands and government legislation is regularly enacted to help protect it. In 2008 the Vatnajökull National Park was created by combining the previous parks at Skaftafell and Jókulsárgljúfur. The ultimate goal is to completely encase the Vatnajökull glacier and all of its glacial run-off under one long strand of enviro-friendly red tape. Smaller-scale conservation projects are underway throughout the country as well.
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Activities
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BIRDWATCHING
BOATING
CAVING
CYCLING
DIVING
DOG SLEDDING
HIKING
HORSE RIDING
ICE CLIMBING
MOUNTAINEERING & ICE TREKKING
SEA ANGLING & FISHING
SEA KAYAKING
SKIING
SNOWBOARDING & SNOWKITING
SNOWMOBILING
SWIMMING & SPAS
WHALE WATCHING
WHITE-WATER RAFTING
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Iceland’s dramatic scenery, pristine wilderness and abundance of tour operators mean that it’s easy to get into the great outdoors and enjoy the country at its best. Whether you’re a weather-beaten adrenalin junkie looking for the next high, or a more laid-back adventurer content with some leisurely walking and great photo opportunities, Iceland has something for you. This chapter will give you an overview of what’s on offer; you’ll find information on local trails, operators and activities listed in the destination chapters. Also check out our activities colour-spread for a bit of inspiration.
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BIRDWATCHING
On coastal cliffs right around the country you can see huge numbers of sea birds, often in massive colonies. The best time for birdwatching is between June and mid-August, when gannets, guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars can be seen. Puffins are spotted from the end of April until mid-August, when they suddenly take to the sea en masse. Some of the best spots for birdwatching include Hornstrandir, the Látrabjarg Peninsula and Grímsey in the Westfjords; Drangey and Málmey Islands in northwest Iceland; Mývatn, Lundey and the Langanes Peninsula in northeast Iceland; Borgarfjörður Eystri and Skálanes in east Iceland; and Breiðamerkursandur in southeast Iceland.
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Get a bird’s perspective on popular ‘flight-seeing’ plane ride tours – www.ernir.is for tours in the south, and www.myflug.is for flights over Mývatn and the nearby highlands.
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For more comprehensive information on the bird species in Iceland, Click here.