Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [56]
Reykjavík Marathon (www.marathon.is) Held on a Saturday in mid-August, with shorter distances and fun runs for those who like to grit their teeth less.
Menningarnott (Culture Night; www.menningarnott.is) Iceland’s biggest festival takes place mid-August; this evening of cultural events follows the marathon – more than a third of Iceland’s population attends. It includes musicians on every street corner, citywide cultural and artistic performances, much drunkenness and a massive fireworks display.
Tango on ICEland (www.tango.is) Tango has really gripped the Icelandic soul. This three-day annual event at the end of August is composed of dance workshops and performances.
Reykjavík Jazz Festival (www.reykjavikjazz.is) The five-day Reykjavík Jazz Festival (JazzhátíÐ Reykjavíkur) celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2009, and attracts a range of local and international talent. It has moved around the calendar a lot in recent years: check the website for dates.
September
Reykjavík International Film Festival (www.riff.is) This is a 10-day celebration of art-house films, with screenings across the city and talks by Icelandic and international directors – for example, 2009’s star guest was Oscar-winner Milos Forman, director of One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.
October
Iceland Airwaves (www.icelandairwaves.com) This five-day event in mid-October is one of the world’s coolest music festivals. Homegrown talent and international DJs and bands play their souls out in various intimate venues around the city; past acts have included Sigur Rós, Fat Boy Slim, the Flaming Lips and Hot Chip.
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SLEEPING
Reykjavík has loads of accommodation choices, with midrange guest houses and business-class hotels predominating. In July and August accommodation fills up quickly; reservations are strongly advised. Most places open year-round apart from Christmas (we’ve noted where accommodation is summer only) and offer 20% to 45% discounts from October to April.
Budget
Reykjavík campsite (Map; 568 6944; www.reykjavikcampsite.is; Sundlaugavegur 32; sites per person Ikr1000; mid-May–mid-Sep) The only camping option in the city (right next door to the city hostel, 2km east of the centre in the Laugadalur valley) gets very busy in summer, but with space for 650 people in its three fields, you’re likely to find a place. Facilities include free showers, bike hire, a kitchen and barbecue area, and a reception desk selling gas bottles and postcards; you can share the hostel’s internet access and laundry room, but emphatically not its kitchens.
Reykjavík City Hostel (Map; 553 8110; www.hostel.is; Sundlaugavegur 34; sb 6-bed dm with shared bathroom Ikr2100, sb 4- or 6-bed dm with bathroom Ikr3000, sb r with bathroom Ikr4300; ) Reykjavík’s eco-friendly youth hostel sleeps 170 people and has excellent facilities. There are three guest kitchens, a library, four internet-linked computers, free wi-fi, a laundry room (Ikr300 per washer/dryer) and bike hire, as well as regular film shows, pancake nights and pub crawls. Its lovely staff can book trips and the airport bus. The downsides are that it’s a good 2km out of town; and screaming school kids may well drive you to despair. The bus from the airport should drop you off here directly. Bus 14 (Ikr280, every 20 to 30 minutes) runs to Hlemmur and Lækjartorg in the city centre.
Salvation Army Guesthouse (Map; 561 3203; www.herinn.is; Kirkjustræti 2; sb/s/d/tr/q Ikr3000/7100/9900/14,000/17,500) This is the nearest thing Reykjavík has to a Japanese capsule hotel! The tiny rooms at this Christian ‘guest house’ are highly functional and frill-free, but there’s a bustling backpackery atmosphere, guest kitchen and lounging area. Step outside and the whole of Reykjavík is at your feet. Breakfast Ikr800.
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SLEEP TIGHT…
Restless sleepers may struggle in Iceland. Despite the ‘light nights’, a surprising number of hostels, guest houses and hotels have transparent curtains,