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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [59]

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kettle, TV, washbasin, wi-fi access and duvets printed with zebra stripes(!). Economy rooms fit these accoutrements into a tiny space and have shared bathrooms, while more expensive en-suite rooms are larger: four have sea views and two have balconies. The smart studio apartments here are worth every króna.

APARTMENTS

Apartments in Reykjavík are often very good value.

Castle House & Embassy Apartments (Map; 511 2166; http://hotelsiceland.net; Skálholtsstígur 2a & Garðastræti 40; 1-6 person apt Ikr11,600-39,900) Turn to these pleasant self-contained apartments for satisfyingly central and commendably quiet accommodation. The two sets of apartments (located on opposite sides of Tjörnin) are much more personal than a hotel, but come with room service: fresh towels appear daily and washing-up seems to magically clean itself. Breakfast not included. The tariff changes depending on demand – cheapest rates are through the website.

Forsæla Guesthouse (Map; 551 6046, 863 4643; www.apartmenthouse.is; Grettisgata 33b; d/tr Ikr14,400/17,400, 2-/3-/4-person apt Ikr19,200/23,200/27,200, house Ikr60,000) This is a really lovely option in Reykjavík’s conservation area. Star of the show is the 100-year-old wood-and-tin house for four to eight people, which comes with all the old beams and tasteful mod-cons you could want. Three apartments have small but cosy bedrooms and sitting rooms, fully equipped kitchens and washing machines. There’s a minimum three-night stay and the friendly owners prefer prebookings.

Three Sisters (Þrjár Systur; Map; 565 2181; www.threesisters.is; Ránargata 16; 1-/2-person apt €82/108, family apt €133; mid-May–Aug; ) A twinkly eyed former fisherman runs the Three Sisters, a lovely town house in old Reykjavík, now divided into eight studio apartments. Comfy counterpaned beds are flanked by old-fashioned easy chairs and state-of-the-art flatscreen TVs. Each room comes with a cute fully equipped kitchen (including fridge, microwave and two-ringed hob). A short stroll seawards is a second building with eight more apartments, and sleeping-bag accommodation in six-bed dorms (around Ikr3000).

Room With A View (Map; 552 7262; www.roomwithaview.is; Laugavegur 18; 1-/2-/3-/4-bedroom apt around Ikr27,900/36,900/43,900/49,900; ) This ridiculously central apartment hotel offers one- to four-bedroom apartments, decorated in Scandinavian style and with private bathrooms, kitchenettes, CD players, TVs and washing machines. Half have those eponymous sea and city views, and most have access to a Jacuzzi. Rooms vary – check the website for a wealth of details. It has a bang-on-centre location; the downside is Friday- and Saturday-night street noise.

HOTELS

Many of Reykjavík’s midrange hotels are places built for and favoured by business travellers, and the places can be pretty bland. Rooms have private bathrooms unless mentioned otherwise.

Metropolitan Hotel (Map; 511 1155; www.metropolitan.is; Ránargata 4a; s/tw/tr Ikr14,200/17,400/20,500; ) In the peaceful old town, within a few blocks of the city’s core, the Metropolitan received a top-to-toe makeover in 2004. This couldn’t alter the small size of its 31 rooms, but they certainly look much better than they did! Facilities stretch to TVs, mini-fridges and wireless internet access, and a lift (elevator) – rare in Iceland in a hotel of this class! Essentially, a fairly basic place in a good location.

Hótel Leifur Eiríksson (Map; 562 0800; www.hotelleifur.is; Skólavörðustígur 45; s/d/tr Ikr15,200/18,400/21,500) This hotel glories in one of the best locations in Reykjavík: it’s slap on the end of arty Skólavörðustígur, and more than half its 47 rooms have inspiring views of Hallgrímskirkja. They’re fairly small and basic (with blue carpeting, narrow beds, TVs and phones), but you’re paying for the hotel’s coordinates rather than its interior design. There’s no restaurant, but free tea and coffee are available in the lobby, and guests get reduced rates at the Indian Mango restaurant Click here.

Hótel Frón (Map; 511 4666; www.hotelfron.is; Laugavegur 22a; s/d/studio/2-bed apt

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