Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [71]
Sódóma (Map; 860 2216; Tryggvagata 22) Just opened in 2009, Sódóma (named after a fictional bar from a famous Icelandic film) is a central venue rising from the ashes of former stalwart Gaukur á Stöng. It acts as a rougher rock bar, and its size gives it prominence as one of the city’s main live-music venues.
Sport
The country’s passion for football (soccer) is huge. However, the Icelandic league is on a tiny scale and matches are generally played at suburban sports grounds. One of Reykjavík’s biggest teams is KR (www.kr.is), who play in the Newcastle United strip! Their home ground is KR-völlur. Cup and international matches are played at the national stadium (Laugardalsvöllur; Map; 510 2914) in Laugardalur; see the sports sections of Reykjavík’s newspapers for fixtures, and buy tickets directly from the venue.
The Reykjavík Marathon (Click here), held annually in August, is tremendously popular. Contact your local running club or www.marathon.is for information on how to participate.
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SHOPPING
Spending sprees in Reykjavík are now viable for visitors, ever since the country’s terrible economic troubles began and the value of the króna plummeted through the floor. At the time of writing, just about every shop on the high street and in the shopping malls was plastered with signs reading ‘Útsala 40%’; add to that your 15% tax-free shopping refund (see the boxed text), and prices are now almost on a par with other destinations.
It’s shocking for Iceland, but great news for visitors looking for unusual gifts. The city centre is full of tiny, tantalising shops – Icelanders seem genetically programmed with a talent for quirky design. Look out for well-made Icelandic sweaters, delicate jewellery, weird-and-wonderful clothing, CDs by the latest bands, bags of dried fish, chocolate-covered liquorice, and bottles of the Icelandic schnapps brennivín.
Austurstræti and Hafnarstræti contain tourist stores selling puffin mugs and troll trinkets; Skólavörðustígur sells arty-crafty one-offs; and Laugavegur is the main shopping street.
Antiques & Bric-a-Brac
Kolaportið Flea Market (Map; Geirsgata; 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) Held in a huge industrial building by the harbour, this weekend market is a Reykjavík institution and definitely worth a visit, particularly in these economically challenged times. Browse through piles of secondhand clothes, music, antiques and children’s toys, or pick up Icelandic fish delicacies including cubes of hákarl.
Fríða Frænka (Map; 551 4730; Vesturgata 3; noon-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) This place is a two-storey treasure trove of everything from antique furniture to ’60s plastic kitsch. Items are piled precariously in tiny side rooms – the art-installation effect adds to the experience.
Clothes
Reykjavíkurs are style crazy, although the credit crunch has slowed the rush of start-up boutiques that made clothes shopping in Iceland such a fascination. For international brand-name clothing, try the two big shopping centres (Click here).
66° North (Map; 535 6680; www.66north.is; Bankastræti 5; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) Iceland’s outdoor-clothing company began by making all-weather wear for Arctic fishermen. This metamorphosed into weatherproof but fashionable streetwear – coats, fleeces, hats and gloves. The branch at Kringlan shopping centre stays open until 9pm on Thursdays.
ELM (Map; 511 0991; www.elm.is; Laugavegur 1; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat) Black-and-cream women’s fashion – the designs are unmistakeably Icelandic, with sharp, eccentric but very flattering cuts.
Gaga (Map; 551 2306; www.gaga.is; Vesturgata 4) Strange knitted goods from designer Gaga Skorrdal.
GuSt (Map; 551 7151; www.gust.is; Bankastræti 11) Classy women’s clothing, made from wool and fish leather and cut in that indefinable Icelandic style.
Handknitting Association of Iceland (Map; 552 1890; www.handknit.is; Skólavörðustígur 19; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) Traditional handmade hats, socks and sweaters are sold at this