Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [76]
Seltjarnarnes is a haven for birdwatching – 106 visiting species have been recorded here. The offshore island Grótta, where the lighthouse stands, is accessible at low tide but closed from May to July due to nesting birds. Across the water of the fjord there are super views of Esja (909m).
One of the nicest ways to get here is along the good coastal path, popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists. You can also take bus 11 from Hlemmur or Lækjartorg bus stations.
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KÓPAVOGUR
pop 30,000
Kópavogur, the first suburb south of Reykjavík, is just a short bus ride away – but it feels far from the tourist trail. There are a few culture-vulture attractions in the complex next door to the distinctive arched church.
Sights
The cultural complex Menningarmiðstoð Kópavogs (Map) contains Kópavogur’s Natural History Museum (Náttúrufræðistofa Kópavogs; 570 0430; www.natkop.is; Hamraborg 6a; admission free; 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 11am-5pm Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun), which explores Iceland’s unique geology and wildlife. There’s an orca skeleton, a good collection of stuffed animals and geological specimens, and a fish tank housing some of Mývatn lake’s weird Marimo balls.
You’ll also find Iceland’s first specially designed concert hall here, built entirely from Icelandic materials (driftwood, spruce and crushed stone). Salurinn ( 570 0400; www.salurinn.is; Hamraborg 6) has fantastic acoustics – see the website for details of its (mostly classical) concert program. Tickets cost from Ikr1800 to Ikr3000 depending on the concert.
Next door, there are changing modern-art exhibitions in the beautifully designed Gerðarsafn Art Museum (Map; 554 4501; www.gerdarsafn.is; Hamraborg 4; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun). Its small cafe has mountain views.
If you’re testing out the city’s geothermal pools, try the Olympic-sized Sundlaug Kópavogs (Map; 570 0470; Borgarholtsbraut 17; adult/child Ikr280/120; 6.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, plus 8am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep & 8am-6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar), popular with families, with a children’s pool, slide, sauna and hot pots.
Getting There & Away
Buses S1 and S2 leave every few minutes from Hlemmur or Lækjartorg in central Reykjavík, stopping at the Hamraborg stop in Kópavogur (look out for the church). The journey takes about 10 minutes.
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HAFNARFJÖRÐUR
pop 25,900
The ‘Town in the Lava’ rests on a 7000-year-old flow and hides a parallel elfin universe, according to locals. Its old tin-clad houses and lava caves are worth a visit on a sunny summer’s day, but in winter, unless the Christmas market is on, tumbleweeds roll.
Hafnarfjörður was once a major trading centre, monopolised by the British in the early 15th century, the Germans in the 16th and the Danes in the 17th. Many of the finest houses in town once belonged to rich merchants. Today the town is spreading like spilt milk, but the endless new-building estates east of the harbour hold nothing of interest for visitors.
Information
The tourist office ( 585 5500; www.visithafnarfjordur.is; Strandgata 6; 8am-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-5pm Fri) is in the town hall (Raðhús). At weekends from June to August, there’s tourist help at Pakkhúsið from 11am to 5pm.
Internet access is available at the super library ( 585 5690; Strandgata 1; 10am-7pm Mon-Wed, 9am-7pm Thu, 11am-7pm Fri year-round, plus 11am-3pm Sat Oct-May) for Ikr200 per hour.
There are banks with foreign-exchange desks and ATMs at the Fjórður shopping centre, right by the bus station.
Sights
Hafnarfjörður Museum (Byggðasafn Hafnarfjarðar; 585 5780; admission free) is divided over several buildings. Pakkhúsið (Vesturgata 8; 11am-5pm daily Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Sep-May) is the main section, with three storeys of exhibits. The ground floor may interest English visitors. It deals with the British invasion of (neutral) Iceland in WWII – how many of us were taught that in history lessons?! Upstairs, there are displays on the history