Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [78]
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HIDDEN WORLDS
Many Icelanders believe that their country is populated by hidden races of little folk – jarðvergar (gnomes), álfar (elves), ljósálfar (fairies), dvergar (dwarves), ljúflingar (lovelings), tívar (mountain spirits), englar (angels) and huldufólk (hidden people).
Although most Icelanders are embarrassed to say they believe, around 90% of them refuse to say hand-on-heart that they don’t believe. Many Icelandic gardens feature small wooden cut-outs of álfhól (elf houses) to house the little people in case the myths are true.
Hafnarfjörður is believed to lie at the confluence of several strong ley lines (mystical lines of energy) and seems to be particularly rife with these twilight creatures. In fact, construction of roads and homes in Hafnarfjörður is only permitted if the site in question is free from little folk.
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Árahús ( 555 1770; Strandgata 21; s/d Ikr6000/8000; Jun-Aug) The owner, Smári, keeps up appearances at this very central option on the pedestrian main street. Always fresh and neat, Árahús has a homey feel, with bookshelves, paintings, leather settees in the sitting room, and two good guest kitchens. It becomes a student house from September, but there may still be room for guests – call to check.
Helguhús Guesthouse ( 555 2842; www.helguhus.is; Lækjarkinn 8; s/d/tr Ikr5900/8900/11,500) Close to a small lake a 10-minute walk out of town, Helguhús is a well-turned-out town house with cosy, cream-coloured rooms (all with shared bathrooms). Breakfast is included.
Viking Hotel ( 565 1213; www.fjorukrain.is; Strandgata 55; s/d Jun-Aug Ikr14,900/16,500, Sep-May Ikr11,300/13,800; ) The over-the-top Viking Village complex Fjörukráin also offers 42 hotel rooms. Rather than being stuffed full of swords and battle-axes, they’re surprisingly smart modern rooms, with TV, tea-making kit, phone and bathroom. There’s also a hot tub and sauna for guests. Breakfast is included.
Eating
Café Aroma ( 555 6996; www.aroma.is; Fjórður, Fjarðargata; snacks Ikr750-1700; 10am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun) A satisfying surprise awaits on the upper floor of the shopping centre – this smart cafe has huge windows with stunning sea views. There’s a very popular salad bar (Ikr1290). It becomes a bar later on.
Súfistinn ( 565 3740; Strandgata 9; snacks Ikr800-1500; 8.15am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11.30pm Sat, 11am-11.30pm Sun) This great cafe-bar is the most cheerful place to eat in town – ladies lunch, readers read, kids play chess, and half of Hafnarfjörður gathers to gossip about the other half. There’s a satisfying selection of salads, sarnies, burritos, crêpes, quiches and coffee on offer, and an all-new outside deckng area.
Tilveran ( 565 5250; Linnetsstígur 1; mains Ikr2100-3700; 11.30am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Sat & Sun) On the main pedestrian street, this unassuming little restaurant specialises in seafood, with dishes such as tagliatelle with lobster. Lunch specials are good value, with soup, main and coffee/tea for Ikr1790.
Viking Village Fjörukráin ( 565 1213; www.vikingvillage.is; Strandgata 50a & 55; mains Ikr2500-5600; from 6pm) The tacky but strangely endearing restaurant Fjörukráin is housed in a totally outrageous reconstruction of a Viking longhouse, complete with carved pillars and dragons on the roof. It offers Viking feasts (hákarl, dried fish, braised lamb, fish soup and skyr), served up by singing Vikings. If you’re going to be a spoil sport, you can order Icelandic specialities from the Viking-free Fjaran restaurant in the same complex.
Gamla Vínhúsið ( 565 1130; Vesturgata 4; pizzas from Ikr1500, mains Ikr3200-4800; 11am-2pm & 6-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-10.30pm Sat & Sun) Essentially a pizzeria, Gamla Vínhúsið has a no-frills dining room. It also serves mains of fish, beef, lamb and lobster.
For self-caterers, there’s a tiny bakery ( 7.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) on the main street; or the Fjörður shopping centre has a 10-11 supermarket, a bakery and a Vín Búð liquor store.
Getting There & Around
It’s an easy 15-minute bus