Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [94]
Given that Skálholt played such a major role in Iceland’s history, the modern settlement is rather a letdown, although its inhabitants have done their best to make the past accessible with the nicely put-together leaflet ‘Historical trail in Skálholt’, outlining a 2km walking tour around the hamlet. Literature lovers should read the brilliant Iceland’s Bell by Halldór Laxness for a vivid picture of Skálholt’s wealth and power in the 17th century.
There’s an important free classical-music festival, Sumartónleikar í Skálholtskirkju ( 562 1028; www.sumartonleikar.is), at Skálholt for five weeks from July to early August, featuring composers and musicians from all over Iceland and Europe.
Just 1.5km from Skálholt is the village of Laugarás (population 144), mainly known for its greenhouses. If you’ve got young children, you could pop into the little family park, Dýragarðurinn í Slakka ( 868 7626; www.slakki.is; adult/2-16yr Ikr700/400; 11am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep). Its beguilements include minigolf, farm animals, parrots and ice cream.
SLEEPING & EATING
Hótel Hvítá ( 486 8600; hotelhvita@simnet.is; sites per person Ikr600, sb from Ikr3200, s/d/tr Ikr10,000/14,700/19,800; May-Sep; ) In a great location beside the suspension bridge in Laugarás, this basic hotel offers sleeping-bag bunk beds and simple parquet-floored guest-house rooms, and also caters for campers. There’s a grill-style restaurant, with a splendid view over the Hvitá river.
Skálholtsskóli ( 486 7088; www.skalholt.is; sb Ikr3700, s/d Ikr8500/12,000) The Lutheran theological centre at Skálholt is open to guests. It’s often booked out by visiting church groups, but if you’re seeking clean, plain, twin-bedded en suite rooms in a peaceful hamlet, it’s worth calling. A separate building contains cheaper sleeping-bag accommodation, and there’s a restaurant. Breakfast is Ikr1100.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From June to August, scheduled Trex ( 551 1166; www.bogf.is) bus 2/2a does an 8½-hour circuit from Reykjavík to Geysir and Gullfoss, calling at Reykholt (Ikr2600) and Skálholt/Laugarás (Ikr2500). The bus leaves the city at 8.30am. Outside those months, Skálholt/Laugarás is a request stop only.
To drive to Skálholt, take Rte 35 from Selfoss. After around 30km, turn right onto Rte 31; the settlement is a couple of kilometres further along.
Kerið & Seyðishólar
Around 10km further southwest of Skálholt and Laugarás, Rte 35 passes Kerið, a 6500-year-old explosion crater containing a spooky-looking green lake. Björk once performed a concert from a floating raft in the middle; and it’s said that some joker has introduced fish to the water.
About 3km northeast across the road is the bright-red Seyðishólar crater group, which produced most of the surrounding lava field.
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FLÚÐIR
pop 380
Flúðir’s mainly known for its mushrooms, grown in geothermal greenhouses, and for its many summer house, where hardworking Reykjavíkurs come to throw off big-city cares. This peaceful green settlement is the largest in this area; it has all necessary services and makes an alternative base for exploring the Golden Circle (it’s around 25km south of Gullfoss and Geysir).
There’s a swimming pool ( 486 6790; adult/6-15yr Ikr300/150; 4-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 1-6pm Sun), a small folk museum containing farming equipment at the farm Gróf ( 486 6634; by arrangement), a bank with ATM and a post office. Horse riding is available at Syðra-Langholt – see below.
Sleeping & Eating
Tjaldmiðstöðin Flúðum ( 618 5005; siters per person Ikr850; Easter-Sep; ) Flúðir’s new campsite, on the banks of the Litla Laxá stream, has a well-equipped service centre, with kitchen, washing machine and dryer, TV and wireless internet access. Flúðir’s popularity with city-dwellers newly released into the countryside can make this an extremely crowded and