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Just to make things a little more complicated, there are hydrogenated fats and trans fatty acids, both results of tinkering by the big, hairless monkey.

In order to make a polyunsaturated fat solid at room temperature or resistant to rancidity, hydrogen is pushed into the molecule so that those empty seats won’t be taken up by undesirable substances. Fatty acids receiving this elemental transfusion straighten out physically, which makes it easier for the fat to lock up with its neighbor. The result is a fat that’s solid at room temperature and opaque rather than clear. Vegetable shortening is a good example of this kind of fat. Unfortunately, any health advantage that might have been gained by the unsaturated nature of the fat is blown out of the water by the fact that the added hydrogen essentially saturates the fat. A trans fatty acid is simply a polyunsaturate that has been partially hydrogenated. Most nonbutter, buttery spreads employ trans fatty acids.

“Fat” here is a blanket term for triglycerides. Technically speaking any triglyceride that is solid at room temperature is called “fat.” Any triglyceride that’s liquid at room temperature is called an oil. There are two exceptions: palm oil and coconut oil, both of which are solid at room temperature but for some reason are still referred to as oils rather than fats.

Smoke Points

The smoke point is the temperature at which a heated fat starts to release smoke and acrid odors and lend an undesirable taste to food. When a fat reaches its smoke point, it is degrading very rapidly and certain compounds are escaping as vapor. This is why a thermometer should be used all the time, no matter what.

It seems pretty clear that if an oil’s smoke point drops a few degrees (as much as 10° F) each time it’s used, you’re better off starting with an oil with a very high smoke point—either peanut, corn, soybean, or safflower.

Approximate Smoke Point Ranges for Common Fats

Fried Green Tomatoes

Okay—so I’m Southern.

Application: Pan-Frying

Slice the tomatoes into ¼-inch rounds and spread out on paper towels. Top with another layer of paper towels and allow to drain. (The key to successful fried tomatoes is that they must be as dry as possible prior to breading; otherwise the coating will peel off in sheets after cooking.) Meanwhile, mix the flour and cornstarch and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. In a separate container, beat the eggs until slightly fluffy. Put the cracker crumbs in a third container. In a skillet, heat ½ inch of oil to 350° F. Season the dried tomato slices with salt and pepper, dredge in the flour mixture, then dip in the egg, and then press into the cracker crumbs to coat. With tongs, working in batches, gently lay them in the pan and cook until crisp and brown on one side, then flip and brown the other side. Transfer to a rack as they are done. I eat my ’maters with hot-pepper vinegar and a glass of sweet iced tea.

Yield: 4 side servings

Software:

3 green tomatoes, each about the

size of a baseball

½ cup flour

½ cup cornstarch

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of cayenne pepper

3 eggs

2 cups fine Ritz cracker crumbs

Vegetable oil for frying

Hardware:

Paper towels

3 containers for dredging

10-inch cast-iron skillet or heavy-

bottom pan

Oil thermometer

Tongs

Rack

Eggplant Parmesan

Cheese provides a perfect moisture barrier between the crisp coating and the tomato sauce. But sauce lightly; too much liquid will destroy the crispness you’ve worked so hard to create.

Application: Pan-Frying

Cut the eggplant into ¼-inch slices either crosswise (round slices) or lengthwise (long slices), depending on your preference. Liberally sprinkle the slices with kosher salt and lay out on a baking sheet lined with paper towels (stacking is fine as long as the stacks are equal in height). Top with another layer of paper towels, place a second baking sheet on top, and then weight it down. Allow to press for 30 minutes. Rinse away the salt and pat dry. Season the flour with ¼ teaspoon