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In the classic meunière style, food is seasoned, dusted with flour, and sautéed in butter, with a pan sauce created by the addition of lemon juice and parsley. In the bastardization that follows, dried thyme is ground and added to the flour, then the butter is turned into a light mustard cream sauce at the last possible minute. Why did I go to the trouble of changing something that was already perfect? So I could call the dish “Miller Thyme Trout,” of course.

Application: Sautéing

Grind the thyme to a powder in a coffee grinder and mix it into the flour. Season the mixture with salt and pepper and dredge the fish in it. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the butter. When the butter begins to foam, carefully lay in the fish, flesh side down. Cook until lightly brown, about 3 minutes, and then flip and cook the skin side for another 3 minutes. Remove the fish to a serving plate. Stir the mustard and cream into the pan and bring to a simmer to thicken. Pour over the fish and serve.

Yield: 1 serving

Software:

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 cup flour

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 whole butterflied trout (about 8

ounces)

2 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons whole-grain mustard

¼ cup heavy cream or milk

Hardware:

Coffee grinder

Container for dredging

Large sauté pan

Bean and Garlic Sauté

Although the step known as “sautéing” is most often an opening gambit in a grander construction (how many recipes do you know of that don’t begin with something like: “Sauté the onion in the oil”?), sautéing can also be the finishing touch, as in this simple bean recipe. Although butter is notorious for burning, no other common fat browns food as well or brings as much flavor to the party. Tempering it with a heat-friendly oil will keep the butter in line.

Application: Sautéing

Place the butter in a cold sauté pan and place over high heat. As soon as the butter melts and stops foaming, add the pecans and toss until they darken slightly.21 Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside.

Add the oil to the pan and swirl to coat the bottom. Add the beans, season with salt, and toss until the beans start to brown in places, approximately 2 minutes.

Add the garlic and toss until fragrant.

Toss in the nuts, remove from the heat, and drizzle with the vinegar.22

Yield: 2 side servings

Software:

1 tablespoon butter

¼ cup pecan pieces

1 tablespoon peanut oil

½ pound slender green beans,

blanched

Kosher salt

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon sherry or red wine

vinegar

Hardware:

10-inch sauté pan

Sweet-and-Sour Tofu

I’m a huge sweet-and-sour fan and, oddly enough, I think this dish captures what a sweet and sour should be about: contrasts of flavor and texture. Why the tofu? Why not? It absorbs flavor better than meat and fries beautifully. And it’s better for you than meat, too.

Applications: Marinating, Immersion-Frying, Sautéing

Drain the tofu, slice each “brick” lengthwise into 4 equal pieces, and set on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Place a couple of paper towels on top, cover with a second baking sheet, and weight with cans of food. Set aside for at least 30 minutes, then cut into 2-inch cubes and place in a large mixing bowl. In a small mixing bowl, combine the soy sauce, garlic, 1 tablespoon of the ginger, ½ cup flour, and the cornstarch. Pour over the tofu and allow to marinate, refrigerated, overnight. Drain off any excess liquid (there won’t be much; it gets pretty sticky), and dredge the tofu in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. In an electric fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 350° F and fry the tofu until golden brown on all sides. Work in batches, setting the fried tofu aside on a warm plate.

In another small bowl, combine the ketchup, sugar, vinegar, and honey, and mix to blend. Set the sauce aside.

In a small roasting pan over medium heat, heat the canola and sesame oils. Sauté the remaining ginger in the oil for 30 seconds, then add