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Peel the egg and shred it through the fine side of a box grater.

Heat the sauté pan over medium heat, then add 1 tablespoon of the butter. When the foaming subsides, toss in ⅓ of the bread crumbs and ⅓ of the grated egg then salt and pepper to taste. Stir until the crumbs begin to brown, then add ⅓ of the florets. Stir to coat, then transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, making 2 more batches.

Why cook this in stages? Crowding the pan will mean more stirring, which can break the vegetables apart—and that would be bad.

Yield: 6 side servings

Software:

1 egg

½ head cauliflower, cut into florets

1 head broccoli, cut into florets

3 tablespoons butter

½ cup panko (Japanese bread

crumbs)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Hardware:

Steamer basket

Large pot with lid

Tongs

Fireproof gloves

Box grater

Sauté pan

Sweet Onion Custard

For more about custards and eggs, see the Eggs-cetera section.

Application: Steam

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, stock, and vinegar. Season with salt and white pepper. Divide the onions evenly among 4 ramekins and pour in the egg mixture to fill. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and then aluminum foil and set the ramekins in a steamer basket. Place steamer over a large pot of water at a low boil and gently steam for 12 to 15 minutes until custard is set but not firm. Serve hot.

Yield: 4 servings

Note: Onions will reduce by half as you caramelize them, so begin with 1 cup of thinly sliced onions. Place a pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon of butter per onion. When the butter has melted, toss the onions to coat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are brown and soft.

Software:

3 eggs

1¼ cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt

Freshly ground white pepper

½ cup caramelized onions

(see Note)

Hardware:

Mixing bowl

Whisk

4 ramekins

Plastic wrap

Aluminum foil

Steamer basket

Large pot

Ramen Radiator

This is the coolest dish in the book, which is not to say that you shouldn’t try the rest of the recipes. I just think this dish delivers huge dividends on a very meager investment.

Application: Steam

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Heat a sauté pan over high heat, add the oils, then add the mushrooms and toss; cook until caramelized, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Break the “loaf ” of noodles into 2 equal parts. Season the fish with salt and white pepper, spread a little honey on each filet, and sprinkle with chili flakes. Line the serving bowls with aluminum foil, making sure there is a lot hanging over the edges. Lay one half-loaf of noodles in each bowl and top with the fish. Spread the shrimp, mushrooms, and onions around the bottom. Top with the scallions. Pull the foil up around the food and crimp it to seal, leaving one tiny opening in each pouch. Mix the liquids together and pour half into each pouch and then seal. Set the pouches on a baking sheet and place in the oven for 22 to 25 minutes. Set the pouches back in the bowls and open at the table. A delicious aroma will fill the air as the steam escapes. Serve with chopsticks and a spoon to eat the “soup.”

Yield: 2 servings

Software:

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 teaspoon sesame oil

8 ounces brown mushrooms, sliced

(preferably cremini or shiitake,

but not button)

1 (3-ounce) package ramen noodles

2 (8-ounce) halibut or other mild

white-fish filets (salmon also

works well)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground white pepper

1 tablespoon honey

Pinch of chili flakes

6 medium shrimp, peeled and

deveined

½ Vidalia onion, sliced Lyonnaise-style

4 scallions, sliced on a bias

2 tablespoons soy sauce

¼ cup mirin (sweet rice wine)

2 cups miso or vegetable stock (if

using miso, the measurement is

2 teaspoons miso paste for 2

cups water)

Hardware:

Sauté pan

2 large serving bowls

Aluminum foil

Baking sheet

CHAPTER 6

Braising

Proof positive that