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By Root 696 0

of the meat’s juice is in motion. And since several hours can pass before the process is complete, we can only deduce that tender meat is dry meat. Sounds logical, but how is it that braises and stews are some of the most lip-smackin’ foods known to man?

Despite the fact that there is very little liquid, the vessel is covered and the heat is low (we assume). This is not braising because too little of the food is in contact with the liquid.

Since more of the food is in contact with the liquid this could be considered braising, but since only half the food is in direct contact, it isn’t very effective.

For one thing, if you cook most meats long enough in a wet environment, they will eventually relax, and just like a sponge, they’ll reabsorb some liquid, but not nearly enough to feel moist in the mouth. The real trick is to capture two other liquids in the meat: melted fat and dissolved gelatin.

So we know what we’re looking for: flavorful meat containing a good bit of connective tissue and a moderate level of fat. Take a beef round roast. It has moisture and some connective tissue, but very little fat, which is why it makes for a really crummy pot roast.

Now the vessel is providing a snugger fit, but there’s still not much in the way of food/liquid contact.

meat and juices inside foil pouch

Because it’s tightly sealed in foil, the meat is completely surrounded by the liquid (remember, the smaller the amount of concentrated liquid the better). The vessel is still necessary because no matter how good you are at metallurgical origami, the packet is going to leak.

Tenderloin and sirloin are even worse when cooked long, low, and wet. Besides, both are relatively tender, so are better suited to a dry method of cooking. Now consider beef short ribs. They’ve got it all: flavor, connective tissue, and enough fat to make up for the moisture lost during long cooking. They’ve also got bones, which bring flavor and even more connective tissue to the party. Short ribs are ideal for braising because they are durable enough to stand up to multiple-stage cooking.

Master Profile: Braising

Heat type: moist

Mode of transmission: 15:85 percent sear to sub-simmer ratio

Rate of transmission: One of the slowest methods around

Common transmitters: heavy pans (sear part) and flavorful liquids (simmer part)

Temperature range: 140° to 210° F

Target food characteristics: large cuts of meat that are high in connective tissue

Non-culinary use: tempering steel

Lamb “Pot Roast”

Pot roast is the poster child for braising. I know of no other dish that goes through such a spectacular metamorphosis during cooking, or that comforts so completely after. (I’m getting all teary-eyed just thinking about it.) Although I have nothing against beef pot roast, lamb brings more meat for less cash.

Application: Searing, then Braising

Preheat the oven to 300° F. Season the flour with salt and pepper. Lightly season the chops with salt and pepper and dredge them in the flour. Shake off any excess. Heat the braising pan over medium heat and add the oil. Sear the chops on all sides until browned; you may need to work in 2 batches to avoid overcrowding the pan (overcrowding eliminates the space needed for steam to escape—that sizzling noise you hear—and your food is then steamed and no crust forms). As the chops brown remove them to a plate. Add the garlic and shallots to the pan. Sauté until fragrant, then add the onions, carrots, celery, and fennel. Stir the vegetables around, then add the wine to deglaze the pan, scraping with a wooden spoon. All those browned pieces from the bottom of the pan will “leap” up and cling to the vegetables. Add the tomato paste, then pour in the stock and add the tomatoes and a few sprigs of rosemary (I leave it whole so I can remove it later; I don’t like to eat the rosemary). Sprinkle an even layer of the dredging flour, about ⅓ cup, over the vegetables; this will help to thicken the sauce. Lay the chops on top, put the lid on the pan, and cook in the oven for