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By Root 637 0

the bright snappy flavor of this classic one-pan dish. Although there are thousands of ways to execute a “piccata,” this recipe sets out some fair guidelines. Here, braising has less to do with tenderizing and more to do with sauce construction. The simmer stage accomplishes three things: it gently completes the cooking of the chicken, marries the flavors of the aromatics and the capers, and gelatinizes the starch in the flour, thus thickening the liquid so that it clings to the meat. Properly executed, there shouldn’t be much sauce left in the pan.

Application: Pan-Braise

Place the chicken breasts, one at a time, on a sheet of plastic wrap; fold the wrap over to cover. Using the mallet, pound each breast to a uniform thickness of ¼ inch. Season the chicken liberally with the salt and pepper, dredge in the flour, shaking off any excess.

In a heavy skillet just big enough to hold all the chicken, heat the oil and 2 tablespoons of butter. When the oil and butter stop sizzling, add the chicken and cook, turning once, until just brown on both sides. Remove the chicken to a plate. Pour off any grease from the pan and add the remaining tablespoon of butter.

Add the onion to the skillet and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic and the scallions and sauté 1 more minute. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the flour over the vegetables and toss to combine.

Deglaze the pan with vermouth and the lemon juice. Add the capers and toss to combine. Return the chicken to the pan, cover, and reduce heat to low, simmering until chicken is cooked through, about 4 minutes. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve on warm platter garnished with the parsley and lemon slices.

Yield: 2 servings

Software:

2 boneless chicken breasts, cut in

half

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Flour for dredging plus 1 teaspoon

2 tablespoons canola oil

3 tablespoons butter

½ yellow onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

6 scallions, chopped

⅓ to ½ cup sweet vermouth,

sherry, or white wine

Juice of 1 large lemon

1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and

lightly crushed

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 lemon, sliced thinly

Hardware:

Plastic wrap

Smooth mallet or heavy sauce pot

Container for dredging

Large skillet or electric skillet

with lid

Tongs

Cube Steak à la Salisbury

I originally called this a recipe for Salisbury steak. Although the flavors and textures involved are reminiscent of a Salisbury steak, as Dr. J.H. Salisbury (a nineteenth-century physician) reminded me when he came to me in a dream, Salisbury steak is always made with ground beef. Promoting the health virtues of ground beef was his raison d’etre, after all.

These steaks are browned in a combination of butter and oil. This will give you the flavor of butter while increasing the smoke point, allowing you to cook at a higher temperature than with butter alone.

Application: Pan-Braise

Preheat the oven to 275° F. Lightly season the steaks and the dredging flour with the salt and pepper, then dredge the steaks in the flour and shake off any excess.

Add 1 tablespoon each of the butter and oil to a hot sauté pan. Brown the steaks, two at a time, adding more butter and oil as needed, about 4 minutes per side. Remove the steaks to a plate.

Pour off any grease from the pan and add the remaining butter. Add the onion, garlic, and mushrooms to the pan and sauté until nicely caramelized, then deglaze the pan with the wine. Mix in the Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and stock, and stir to combine. Return the steaks to the pan, cover, and cook in the oven for 25 minutes.

Yield: 4 servings

Software:

4 (½ pound) beef cube steaks

Flour for dredging

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons canola oil

½ medium onion, sliced

Lyonnaise-style

2 tablespoons minced garlic

½ pound brown mushrooms, thinly

sliced (an egg slicer works well)

¾ cup red wine

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

½ tablespoon Dijon mustard

¾ cup chicken or beef stock

Hardware:

Dredge container