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By Root 699 0

So I don’t make it anymore. Instead, I make a lemon curd that is like hollandaise sauce, except that it looks better, tastes better, and clings to food better than any hollandaise I’ve ever made. And unlike the classic version, this sauce is cooked.

Application: Simmering

Place an inch of water in the pot, cover, and bring to a boil.

Place the egg yolks in the metal bowl and whisk vigorously until they lighten in texture and color. This is important, as it partially denatures (or unwinds) the proteins in the yolks, which will prevent them from curdling when faced with the lemon juice.

Add 2 teaspoons of the lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon of the cayenne, a pinch of salt and all of the sugar. Whisk until smooth.

When the water boils, reduce the heat to medium-low and place the bowl on top of the pot.

Whisk the egg mixture gently but continuously for about 7 minutes, or until it moves like very heavy cream (the whisk will leave a definite trail in the liquid).

Remove the bowl from the pot and set it on a dish towel (for stability).

Whisk the butter into the mixture 1 piece at a time, allowing each piece to melt almost completely before adding the next.

Taste, adjust seasoning, and serve immediately.

Yield: about 1 cup

Note: The most difficult thing about making hollandaise sauce is that it easily curdles. That is, the proteins become over-coagulated. Sugar molecules interfere with the process of curdling, so I invite a few to the party just to keep the peace. Low, controlled heat and frequent whisking do the rest.

Software :

5 egg yolks (the fresher, the better)

2 teaspoons lemon juice, plus more

to taste

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, plus

more to taste

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar (see Note)

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into

tablespoon-size chunks

Hardware :

Small pot

Heavy metal mixing bowl large

enough to sit on top of the pot

with a couple of inches of lip

to spare.

Balloon whisk

Dish towel

Red Onion Tomato Jam

This is a tasty accompaniment to garlicky bread and fried calamari. It’s also great on meatloaf instead of the traditional ketchup coating.

Application: Sautéing , Simmering

Heat a small sauce pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the onions and shallots and toss to coat with the oil. Reduce the heat to low and allow the onions and shallots to sweat and caramelize for about 15 minutes, stirring often. They should be very soft and sweet-tasting. Add the tomatoes, brown sugar, vinegar, and tomato paste. Stir to combine and cook until the mixture is thick and bubbly. Add the stock and reduce to thick bubbly consistency again. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and set half the mixture aside. Purée the other half and fold it back into the reserved mixture. Fold in the basil.

Yield: about 2 cups

Software :

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 cups red onions, sliced

Lyonnaise-style

¼ cup shallot, finely diced

2 cups seeded and diced tomatoes

3 tablespoons brown sugar

4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons tomato paste

1 cup beef stock

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons basil, cut into

fine chiffonade

Hardware :

Small sauce pan

Rubber spatula

Stick blender

Mignonette Sauce/Vinaigrette

Mignonette is fancy oyster-dippin’ sauce. It can also form the base of a vinaigrette dressing. In this application, boiling serves to release flavors, soften material, and intensify flavors. Acetic acid boils at a higher temperature than water so by boiling the solution, the vinegar flāvor will be intensified.

Application: Boiling/Simmering

For the mignonette: Place the vinegar, shallots, Champagne and white pepper into a 2-cup glass measuring cup and zap it in the microwave for 2 minutes. Carefully remove from the microwave, stir and place into the refrigerator to cool completely, approximately 1 hour. Serve on raw oysters on the half shell…always in fashion.

Yes, on high, what other power is there?

For the vinaigrette: Once the sauce has cooled completely, measure 1½ times