India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [101]
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Marg. Gateway information: 022/2202-3585 or -6364.
Jain Temple This is arguably the prettiest temple in Mumbai (indeed, Jain temples are generally the prettiest in India). If your itinerary does not include a visit to one elsewhere (the most famous being in Rajasthan), do make the time to visit Mumbai’s. Members of the Jain community are known to be exceptionally adept in the world of business, and although they believe in self-restraint and aestheticism (orthodox Jains will not tread on an ant, and at their most extreme wear masks to avoid breathing in even tiny insects), they pour large sums into the construction and maintenance of their places of worship. Officially called Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple, this beautifully decorated and adorned temple has an entrance flanked by two stone elephants. The downstairs area houses an array of deities and saints, including an image of Ganesh that recalls historical links between Jainism and Hinduism.
Ridge Rd., Walkeshwar (Malabar Hill). 022/2369-2727. Daily 5am–9pm.
Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat It’s a fascinating spectacle, looking down on row upon row of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone, while Mumbai’s dhobis (around 200 dhobi families work together here) relentlessly pound the dirt from the city’s garments in a timeless tradition. Known as the world’s largest outdoor laundry, the municipal Dhobi Ghat in Mahalaxmi is where Mumbai’s traditional washerfolk—or dhobis—provide a wonderful service, collecting dirty laundry, washing it, and returning it neatly pressed, all for a very small fee. Stubborn stains are removed by soaking garments in a boiling vat of caustic soda; drying takes place on long, brightly colored lines; and heavy wood-burning irons are used for pressing. At the very least, it’s a great photo opportunity, though most locals think it rather amusing that their everyday work arouses such curiosity. (Note that there is another Dhobi Ghat off Capt. Prakash Petha Marg, Colaba, which may be more accessible.)
Dr. E. Moses Rd. (near Mahalakshmi Station).
Mani Bhavan Gandhi Museum Mahatma Gandhi lived in this quaint Gujarati-style house from 1917 to 1934, and it was here in November 1921 that he conducted a 4-day fast in order to restore peace to the city. This quiet three-story home on a beautiful laburnum tree–lined avenue now preserves the spirit of the man who selflessly put his nation before himself. There’s a library of Gandhi-related works, as well as displays of photographs, posters, slogans, and other items that document and explain Gandhi’s legendary life; dioramas depicting major events and turning points in his fight for the nation’s freedom draw particular attention to his devotion to the poor. You can see Gandhi’s old charkha (spinning wheel), which in many ways symbolized the struggle for independence, as it represented a return to roots and to sustainable home industry, where anyone can weave his or her own cloth. A visit to this tranquil spot makes a welcome change from the continuous hubbub of life in Mumbai—go up to the roof to really appreciate the relative stillness of the surrounding neighborhood.
19 Laburnam Rd., near Malabar Hill. 022/2380-5864.www.gandhi-manibhavan.org. Admission Rs 10; donations appreciated. Daily 9:30am–5:30pm.
Marine Drive & Chowpatty Beach Marine Drive (renamed Netaji Subhash Chandra Marg) follows the sweeping curve of sea that stretches north from Nariman Point’s high-rise buildings to infamous Chowpatty Beach, located at the foot of Malabar Hill. It’s the ultimate seaside promenade, where Mumbaikars come to escape the claustrophobia of central Mumbai,