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concierge for recommendations. Of course, you can always get completely into the swing of things by picking up a copy of one of Bollywood’s gossip magazines. Filmfare and Stardust not only fill you in on what’s hot or what’s not, but are crammed with glossy, airbrushed close-ups of silver-screen idols. Even though the growth of multiplexes has killed virtually all the old cinema houses, some still offer historic Art Deco appeal. Get tickets to watch a film at the once wonderful but now run-down Eros Cinema (opposite Churchgate Station; 022/2282-2335) or lovely Liberty Cinema ( 022/2203-1196, a short walk from Eros, near Bombay Hospital), where upper-stall (at Liberty) or dress-circle (at Eros) tickets (the best in the house) still cost under Rs 100. Besides the Bollywood melodrama, you get to admire the wonderful Art Deco interiors, with majestic high ceilings, white cedar and teak paneling, ’60s-style soda fountain, magnificent huge etched mirrors on the stairwells, mock fountains, and old movie posters. It’s possible to get a little more involved in the Bollywood scene, either by joining a personalized tour led by a working assistant director (with Beyond Bombay; ), or by getting yourself landed a part as an extra in a movie (scouts often trawl Leopold Café, looking for foreigners to add to the scenery of forthcoming blockbusters).

CRICKET

Although hockey is India’s official national sport, cricket is by far the best-loved game, and even watching a group of schoolboys practicing in a field is an experience unto itself. Mumbaikars play the game with an enthusiasm that’s quite intoxicating—almost as if it provides some measure of relief from the hardships of daily life. In cricket-crazy India, the stars of the game are worshiped as keenly as film stars and gods, and Indian spectators at international games have the ability to transform even the blandest match into an exciting event.

During the season (Oct–Mar), several matches are held each week at Wankhede Stadium (Churchgate), which is where Mumbai’s big national and international games are hosted. Tickets are sold by the Mumbai Cricket Association ( 022/2281-9910 or -2714), but it’s worth asking your concierge to arrange good seats for you at a decent price (top-tier tickets can go for as much as $100 officially, and up to $300 on the black market). There’s no doubt that watching a cricket match in an Indian stadium with tens of thousands of fans is one of the more fascinating experiences to be had in India, but if crowds make you nervous, watch the World Cup, Sharjah Cup, or any major cricketing event live at a local bar or lounge, with a few dozen cricket-crazy Indians to provide the spectacle.

Giggling Is Good for You

Mumbai is many things, including the hometown of Dr. Madan Kataria, the infectiously joyous man who spread Laughter Yoga to the whole world. Today there are nearly 90 laughter clubs in Mumbai alone, and over 5,000 around the globe. Dr. Kataria says that you don’t even need a sense of humor to take part in these vibrant and wonderfully relaxing, stress-relieving, life-changing sessions where you focus on breathing, body relaxation through stretching, and fun exercises that include different kinds of laughter-inducing techniques. It’s one sort of therapy you really should try out while you’re here—you can track down a club while you’re in Mumbai, or even start one back in your home town. Sessions in Mumbai happen early each morning throughout the city—a good choice is the club that meets at the Worli Sea Face, organized by Mohit Kapoor ( 022/2422-8895 or 98-2006-5119). The website of Dr. Kataria’s School of Laughter Yoga has all the details, as well as contacts for clubs around the world ( 022/2631-6426; www.laughteryoga.org), and explains how you can initiate your own laughter groups.

4 Where to Stay

With greater supply than demand for rooms in Mumbai over the last few years, and the emergence of numerous five-star properties in the suburbs, rooms in downtown Mumbai can often be booked at good rates. Don’t always go by a hotel’s published tariff;