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By Root 2154 0

the brand new Bandra-Worli Sea Link—and is sustained by seamless service and crisp attention to detail that perfectly bridges the gap between business and leisure. With its manageable room count, snappy staff (all with model good looks and big, friendly smiles), and just the right amount of intimacy and warmth, this strikes us as the best of Mumbai’s upmarket hotels. And while the architecture (contemporary, slim, and heavenward-thrusting) hints at bland modernism, there’s much to elevate your stay above the ordinary—whether it’s the bird’s-eye views from the pool deck, planning an offbeat itinerary with the excellent concierge team, or the impeccable rooms. You’ll sleep on the fattest mattresses in town, next to the bed are copies of Maximum City and Shantaram (the author of which is a regular guest), and huge windows frame the city (ask for a room on the top floor). An apprenticeship program for disadvantaged young people suggests a willingness to give back and the hotel is involved in other community outreach programs, too. Simply put: This is our favorite.

114 Dr. E. Moses Rd., Worli, Mumbai 400 018. 022/2481-8000. Fax 022/2481-8001. www.fourseasons.com/mumbai. 202 units. Rs 17,650 superior double, Rs 19,650 deluxe double, Rs 21,650 deluxe sea view double, Rs 24,650 premiere double; Rs 30,000–Rs 201,700 suite. Amenities: 3 restaurants, including San Qi (see review), and 1 rooftop restaurant that will be up and running by 2010), bar; airport transfers (Rs 3,000 in a BMW); ATM; babysitting; concierge; cultural talks and workshops; DVD library; health club and spa with Indian and Western treatments, and yoga, meditation, and aerobic studios; members’ club with exclusive meeting rooms, lounges, and library; large outdoor rooftop pool; room service; yoga. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, MP3-docking station/radio, Wi-Fi (Rs 980 per day).

Business As Usual in the Eye of the Bureaucratic Storm

Nobody said doing business in Mumbai was easy, and starting a business can be a nightmarish process of endlessly cutting red tape. Before opening, the new Four Seasons Hotel, over and above the usual paperwork rigmarole was forced to procure an epic 165 government permits, including (can you believe it?) a special license for the vegetable weighing scale in the kitchen, as well as one for each of the bathroom scales in the guest rooms. Fortunately big money goes a long way towards speeding up any process where politicians and government officials are involved, but we can fully appreciate just why so much of Mumbai’s business happens underground. Mercifully, at least for guests at the Four Seasons, not only do the bathroom scales work (we even used them to check our luggage weight before an international flight!), but as a tax incentive, newly constructed hotels are exempt from charging room tax for the first 15 years of operation. Yet another good reason to stay in rapidly growing Worli.

JW Marriott Hotel The opulent JW remains Juhu’s most luxurious hotel, and continues to be a favored hangout for Bollywood stars, members of Mumbai’s distinguished air-kissing crowd, and, of course, the voyeurs who come to witness this ongoing soap opera. Although you may get a good view of the beach, the hotel itself is disconnected from the shore (literally, due to security reasons) and the aim seems to be on focusing your attention inwards, towards the many dining and recreational facilities located within what is ultimately a vast hangout for wealthy locals who use this as their lounge (and also their nightclub; see “Mumbai After Dark”). Certainly, it’s not a place where you’ll feel as if you’re coming home when you walk through the front door. Set over five floors, the guest rooms are comfortable, with modern, albeit rather predictable, decor and amenities; each has some kind of sea view, though most are side views. Things would be a whole lot better if the staff were more welcoming, or at least bothered to change the repetitive, hypnotically dull lobby soundtrack.

Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu Beach, Mumbai 400 099. 022/6693-3000. Fax 022/6693-3100.