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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [115]

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units, all with shower only. Rs 5,000 executive double; Rs 7,500 premium double. Rs 1,200 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurant; 2 bars; free airport transfers; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar (in premium rooms), Wi-Fi (free).

Novotel Juhu Beach Mumbai At press time this was arguably the best-value hotel in Mumbai, but you’ll need to act quick, because the good rates are part of the introductory offer following its July 2009 launch. The decaying former Holiday Inn has been transformed beyond recognition into a bright, modern leisure complex with direct beach access—greatly enhanced by the resort-style arrangement of pool, terrace loungers, restaurants, and one swinging bar (with live jazz and substantially lower markups on drinks than other hotels)—that makes it feel a lot more like a vacation spot than the snobbish Marriott, and with far superior service to the annoying Sun-n-Sand. Rooms are plush, with carpets and a sleek modern look that’s nevertheless restrained (with a single piece of art), so you’re not going to end up wasting too much time in here; they also all have some kind of sea view (you’ll need to choose an “Ocean Room”—currently at no extra cost—or a suite for a direct sea view). Breakfast is a great buffet spread that includes Maharashtrian sparkling wine.

Balraj Sahani Marg, Juhu Beach, Mumbai 400 049. 022/6693-4444. Fax 022/66934455. www.novotel.com. h6926-re@accor.com. 203 units, all with shower only. Rs 7,500 standard double; Rs 8,500 premium double; Rs 18,000–Rs 25,000 suite. Rates include breakfast and airport transfers; 10% tax extra. AE, DC MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants, lounge, bar; free airport transfers; children’s play area; concierge; health club and spa; large outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV with media hub, hair dryer, minibar, MP3-docking station (in premium rooms), Wi-Fi (free in premium rooms; otherwise Rs 400/hr.).

Inexpensive

Without suggesting a major lifestyle change, an excellent choice for bargain-hunters is Juhu’s ISKCON Ashram (Hare Krishna Land, Juhu; 022/2620-6860; www.iskconmumbai.com; guesthouse.mumbai@pamho.net), which has simple, clean rooms in the guesthouse attached to the very popular Hare Krishna temple. It’s definitely the cheap (Rs 2,995 for an air-conditioned double, including tax) and cheerful (rooms are spacious, clean, and have balconies) nonhotel alternative for visitors open to a bit of a cultural experience (although you won’t be asked to join the Krisna Consciousness movement, you can watch the crowds thronging to the temple), and you have the added incentive of laying claim to the fabulous vegetarian meals served at the adjoining restaurant, Govinda’s (see review).

NEAR THE AIRPORTS

The reasons for staying here are obvious, but it seems a pity to hole up in these cocoons when The Taj Mahal Palace, Four Seasons, and Oberoi beckon from the south.

Expensive

The Gordon House Suites This quirky (and in many respects, gimmicky and kitsch) hotel near the international airport will come as a shock to anyone expecting straight-laced business-geared luxury. Here, the designer was clearly given free reign to play and experiment; so, like the original Gordon House in Colaba, rooms are themed and there’s substantial drama in just about every choice of color, texture, furniture and fitting—they’re far and away the most fun rooms in Mumbai. The most exciting units are probably the red “Fire” rooms, which evoke warmth and passion, the ice-cool “Glacier” rooms, and the “Marine” rooms with their aquamarine ceilings and white marble floors—other units suffer from baroque overkill. Apart from the loud colors in some units, rooms are quiet, and very comfortable, with fat mattresses and gorgeous white linens; we love the glass-wall showers, too. Although at press time there are still encroaching slums (which apparently are being cleared to make way for more high-rise luxury), the hotel itself features landscaped gardens with fountains, waterfalls and pools. At least you won’t be bored while you recover

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