India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [12]
• Unraveling the Intricacies of Hinduism (Master Guest House, Delhi): Staying here is not only the best-value deal in town, but the sophisticated, charming, and extremely knowledgeable Avnish Puri will take you on a “Hidden Delhi” tour, showing you a world not seen by many outsiders, during which he will unravel Hinduism’s spiritual tenets in a profoundly logical way—no mean feat! .
• Being Blessed by an Elephant (Madurai, Tamil Nadu): While you may expect to see an elephant in a national park, it’s always a wonderful surprise when you see one ambling down a crowded street in urban Mumbai or Delhi—these days, though, as authorities work at instilling a modern approach, you’re unlikely to see such large beasts in any India city. But outside Thirupparankundram Temple, near Madurai, the resident temple elephant waits patiently to bestow blessings on those willing to donate a rupee.
• Exchanging Printed Paper for a Handmade Kutchi Rabari Woven Masterpiece (Kutch, Gujarat): Bargaining for unique textiles is a common practice in the bazaars throughout India, but when you stare into the eyes of a seminomadic Rabari woman from Kutch who has spent perhaps over 5 years crafting a particular piece, you understand that this is no mere transaction. You’ll be exchanging money for an item that was made over a substantial portion of her life, and is laden with the narrative of her culture.
• Rocking to the Gentle Rhythm of Lake Pichola under a Firm Hand (Udaipur, Rajasthan): Taj Lake Palace Hotel’s spa boat, moored in the middle of Lake Pichola, is an expeditious vehicle of enlightenment. Book a late-afternoon treatment and emerge from your private sandalwood cabin to see the sun set over the Aravalli Hills and the City Palace lights wink at your newfound sense of peace. It’s about not only the destination but how you get there.
5 Exploring Natural India
• Watch Cows Sunbathing with Tourists on the Beach (Goa): While there’s plenty of marijuana doing the rounds in Goa, you don’t have to smoke a thing to be amused by the mellow cows that wander onto the beach and chill out among the tanning tourists and hawkers. Chewing their cud while seemingly gazing out to sea, these cows really take the Goan motto, “Sossegade” (“Take it easy”), to heart. See chapter 6.
• Ply the Backwaters on a Kettuvallam (Alleppey and Kumarakom, Kerala): Aboard your private houseboat, you aimlessly drift past villages, temples, and churches, watching as village children, unperturbed by your drifting presence, play at the water’s edge, and elephants and water buffalo wade at will. Though the facilities might strike the well-heeled as basic, you’re looked after by a private team (guide, cook, and pilot) who manage to be both discreetly invisible and at your beck and call. See chapter 7.
• Quench Your Thirst with Fresh Coconut Water on a Tropical Island (Lakshadweep): One of India’s best-kept secrets, the 36 atolls and coral reefs that make up the remote union territory of Lakshadweep are rated among the best diving destinations in Asia. Only 10 of the islands are populated, almost exclusively by Malayalam-speaking Muslims who make their living from fishing and harvesting coconuts. These relaxed islanders are supremely welcoming, happily climbing a towering coconut tree to help you quench your thirst. See chapter 7.
• Wake to Hear a Herd of Elephants Approaching (Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, Kerala): The best way to experience this park—famous for its herds of wild elephants—is on a trek with the privately run Periyar Tiger Trail. Accompanied by a naturalist and a game ranger armed with a rifle, you are taken farther into the tourist zone than any other operator is allowed to penetrate. What’s more, you are looked after by a team of reformed poachers, who skillfully track and