India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [122]
Birla Mansion, Sai Baba Marg (next to Commerce House), Kala Ghoda, Fort. 022/2270-3213 up to -3215. Reservations essential for dinner. Main courses Rs 150–Rs 620; fish sold by weight; crab/lobster/prawns Rs 550–Rs 2,500. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3:30pm and 6:30pm–midnight; Sun noon–3:30pm and 7:30pm–midnight.
VongWong THAI/CHINESE A scented elevator couriers you up to yet another visually appealing Oriental restaurant in Nariman Point. It’s the love child of the eponymous chefs Vong and Wong, one Chinese and one Thai—both masters—and together they’ve put together over 300 dinnertime items (and a fine dim sum selection at lunch) on a menu that’ll more than likely overwhelm you. Try steamed red snapper, grilled Chilean sea bass, chicken sui mai, or for something different, the fragrant egg curry. Dishes are masterfully flavored (although some say too subtly spiced) and inevitably excellent. VongWong is a seriously pretty, very stylish venue, and has made a big impression on a certain crowd, but you might have issues with the size of the portions—they’re in inverse proportion to the size of the menu.
Express Towers, First Floor, Nariman Point. 022/2287-5633 through -5635. Main courses Rs 450–Rs 1,200. AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30pm–12:30am.
Moderate & Inexpensive
A survivor since 1973, Delhi Darbar (Holland House, Colaba Causeway; 022/2202-0235; daily 11:30am–12:30am) is a Mumbai institution serving rather standard (and oily) Mughlai and Punjabi food. It has several branches in Mumbai, but we recommend only the one at Colaba. No one comes here for the ambience or service—most come for the tandoori dishes or the mutton or chicken biryani. Ignore the Chinese menu, and don’t expect any alcohol to be served. No booze at Koyla either; a popular rooftop hangout above the Gulf Hotel (Apollo Bunder Rd; 022/6636-9999;www.koylaethniccuisine.com; Tues–Sun 7:30pm–12:30am), it’s recommended for its leisurely ambience and setting: a candlelit, canopied terrace with Arabian music playing in the background. The most popular item on the menu is not food, but the sheesha (hookah or pipe), with fruity flavors like green apple and strawberry. The food is mediocre, but order some kebabs just to enjoy the cool evening breeze, or come after dinner to relax, sit back, and linger over a “mocktail.” The atmosphere is laid-back and no one will hustle you out—but service can be painfully slow. Reservations are recommended; even then, expect a wait. The cover charge will be redeemed against your bill.
The Skinny on Street Food
Mumbai is probably the world capital of street food. Thousands upon thousands of workers commuting through this vast megalopolis each day need to stave off their hunger before dealing with crushing public transport, and you’ll see an endless, thrilling array of places to snack on everything from bhel puri to vada pav (pronounced “pao”), which is the ultimate Mumbai street snack—basically a bun (pav) sliced open and packed with a fried mash potato ball and a spicy concoction of chili and garlic. Street food is something you should be careful about experimenting with anywhere in India. The spots we recommend are not on the street; they serve sanitized (yet authentic) versions of what is available on the street. One place where you can safely try street food—and it’s one of our absolute favorite spots