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By Root 1944 0

by just about any ambience you care to imagine. Of course, the oldest official bar in the city—with a license to prove it—is Harbour Bar ( 022/6665-3366) at the Taj Mahal Palace. A decent enough place for a quiet drink, the view of the Gateway of India is probably its best feature. Up the road from Leopold’s, another Colaba institution is the cheerfully old school Café Mondegar (near the Regal Cinema; 022/2202-0591), “Mondy’s” to regulars, where you’re as likely to rub shoulders with local punters as thirsty tourists. Under the gaze of caricatures by Mario Miranda, you’ll soon find yourself slipping back to the ’70s and ’80s, aided by the decidedly Western jukebox selection. Nearby is the Sports Bar Express ( 022/6639-6681), perfect for beer-quaffers who can get a 1 1⁄2-liter pitcher of beer for around Rs 300; you can also play pool or shoot hoops.

Central Mumbai, Bandra & Juhu

Many Mumbaikers will tell you that to find the city’s most happening nightlife you need to head north. If you’re serious about socializing, we recommend you throw caution (and your budget) to the wind, and make a beeline to the impeccably beautiful (perhaps slightly over-the-top) Shiro (Bombay Dyeing Mills Compound, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, Worli; 022/2438-3008), which, in design, pays tribute to the Far East, drawing a jet-setting clientele. With flickering candles and edgy lighting, boldly colored walls, high ceilings, and a plethora of Buddha statues making no effort to curb expenditure or hedonism, this place gets the balance between opulence and good taste just right. And, boy, do they mix a mean cocktail—for a price, of course. If Shiro proves too overwhelmingly Zen-tastic, you could always pop in the nearby Hard Rock Café ( 022/2438-2888), which is extremely popular with a broad cross-section of Mumbaikers who usually help create an atmosphere that’s quite distinct from your Hard Rock back home.

While Shiro only opens at night, another highly recommended Worli establishment—this time a laid-back, no frills, all-day wine bar—is Ivy (Indage House, Annie Besant Rd.; 022/6654-7939). It’s salubrious and welcoming, and you needn’t fuss too much about what you wear; neither will you need to contact your bank manager before visiting—a glass of wine starts at under Rs 50. Ivy kicks off at 11am.

If you’re looking to stand cheek by jowl with the city’s most beautiful men and women, then make sure you set aside at least one night for drinks and mischief at Bandra’s superhip Olive Bar & Kitchen (Pali Hill Tourist Hotel, 14 Union Park, Khar [West]; 022/2605-8228), where the acknowledged pastime seems to be distinguishing the models from the celebrities. Also in Bandra, Seijo and the Soul Dish (second floor, Krystal, Waterfield Rd.; 022/2640-5555) has a trendy New York look (which is increasingly ubiquitous throughout urban India) with Japanese touches, regular live music and bartenders who know their business.

Farther north, Vie Lounge & Deck (102 Juhu Tara Rd.; 022/2660-3003; www.vie.co.in)–perched at the edge of Juhu Beach—is a shimmering venue with an open-air lounge overlooking the Arabian Sea. Come here for the sea breeze and laid-back ambience. It’s the perfect place for a wind-down martini after a long day, or—if you prefer to get wound up before an exhilarating night on the town—take advantage of their 4 to 7pm happy hour. Also in Juhu, and unquestionably the best reason to travel this far north after dark, is Aurus (Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Rd.; 020/6710-6666), a sublime venue affording sensational views of the sea, kissed by twinkling lights. Aurus isn’t all that easy to spot from the road, so make sure your cab driver or chauffer knows where it is before you head off, or you’ll waste time searching. Aurus only opens at 8:30pm, so you may want to start at Vie and then make your way here once the sun sinks.

If you disapprove of the swing towards social trendiness, don’t panic—the suburbs have their share of old school haunts as well. If you miss the intimacy of your hometown local, head out towards Haji Ali and stop in at The Ghetto (30B Bhulabhai