India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [142]
Serious yoga enthusiasts might want to take a look at the website of the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute ( 020/2565-6134; www.bksiyengar.com), where the founder of the global Iyengar Yoga movement still holds court. However, you need to be a veteran of the form with many years of practice if you intend joining one of his advanced courses. Beginners will have to dedicate themselves to one of the monthly induction programs that requires month-long participation.
Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum One of the most fascinating museums in the country, this massive collection of objects spans the banal and the extraordinary, showcasing the arts and crafts of every possible corner of the country, starting with magnificent Yali (“evil-crusher”) sculptures at the entrance, five-headed marutis, and an elaborate carved zodiac wheel. Assembled by the eponymous Dr. Kelkar, an optician and poet, the museum grew out of Kelkar’s penchant for historical poetry, which he famously wrote under the alias Adnyatwasi. He yearned—obsessively, it would seem—to possess items that would evoke the spirit of the history he was writing about, so he made a lifelong career of collecting (over 20,000 items were amassed in 60 years). Today, only 12% of the entire collection is on display, mainly due to space limitations. The museum demonstrates that there is a little bit of art in every creation, no matter how functional the object. Yet, alongside the dazzling array of combs (in wood, ivory, horn, and metal), the coconut graters, safes, noodle-makers, chairs, and kitchen utensils, there are giant Rajasthani carvings of mounted elephants, 12th-century stone dancers from Halebid, antique manuscripts, examples of tribal art, and crocodile-skin body armor that would make Giorgio Armani cry. Some of the more unusual exhibits include a selection of erotic nutcrackers (not exactly what you think), more types of guitarlike instruments than you ever imagined existed, and a South Indian suit of armor made from fish scales. Set aside at least an hour (even two) to do this place justice. Note: There are plans to relocate the museum to much larger, purpose-built premises, some 2 hours outside Pune. When this is eventually built, it’s hoped that the entire collection will be curated; but that’s in the distant future.
“Kamal-Kunj,” Natu Baug, 1377–78 Shukrawar Peth. 020/2448-2101. www.rajakelkarmuseum.com. Rs 200. Mon–Sun 9:30am–5:30pm
THE OSHO INTERNATIONAL MEDITATION RESORT
His name is synonymous with meditation and New Age catchphrases like “totality,” “awareness,” and “conscious living.” Osho—once known as Bhagwan Rajneesh—is probably the most famous guru the modern world has known, and his teachings a compelling upgrade on the work and spiritual systems of countless mystics who came before. A philosopher and academic, Osho was groundbreaking, sensational, hugely popular, and—for politicians and religious leaders—a massive headache. He drew thousands of followers to communes around the world, and managed to raise hackles everywhere he went, infuriating the American government (he was arrested in the U.S., and allegedly poisoned while in prison) and getting himself barred from a long list of countries. Even now, 20 years after his death, his legacy causes