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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [147]

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While feeling a bit run-down, there’s real vintage atmosphere here, and totally bearable if you can put up with stuck-in-a-groove staff, flaking paint, flayed fabric, and occasionally, strange odors, too.

19, Koregaon Park, next to Osho International Meditation Resort, Pune 411 001. 020/2612-4949 or 020/2612-8388. www.tghotels.com. Rs 700–Rs 800 economy double; Rs 1,000 standard double; Rs 2,000 A/C executive double; Rs 3,000 deluxe double; Rs 3,500 A/C deluxe double; Rs 4,000 A/C super deluxe double; Rs 4,000 Osho suite; Rs 7,500 A/C studio; Rs 500–Rs 1,000 extra person. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. Off-season discounts apply Apr–Sept. MC, V. Amenities: Lounge; airport transfers (Rs 350); room service. In room: A/C (some), TV, fridge, Wi-Fi (free).

The Osho Guesthouse This must be the Rolls Royce of Zen-styled lodgings—simple, elegant, and free of distractions (like phones and TVs) likely to interfere with your reason for being here. Beyond a 24-hour reception, a small lobby lounge, and laundry service, most activities (besides sleeping and showering) happen in various other parts of the campus (although lunch is taken in the efficient canteen-style cafe right next door to the guesthouse. Staying here makes it that much easier to participate in life at the resort, particularly when it comes to attending the strenuous 6am Dynamic Meditation session (a core ingredient of your Osho experience), without wasting time rushing back and forth to your hotel. Bedrooms are compact, with a functional modern design, and a sense of impeccable order prevails from the moment you’re greeted at the front desk.

17 Koregaon Park, Pune 411 001. 020/6601-9900. Fax 020/6601-9910. www.osho.com. guesthouse@osho.com. 60 units (all with shower only). Dec–Feb Rs 5,000 double; Mar–Nov Rs 3,500 double. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V. Amenities: The guesthouse is part of the Osho International Meditation Resort, incorporating 2 cafes, evening snack and beverage bar, a variety of meditation spaces; health club; Internet (in dedicated cybercafe; Rs 1/min.); medical center; large outdoor pool; tennis court; travel agency. In room: A/C, no phone.

The Samrat Hotel It’s a characterless business hotel in an unfetching location (opposite the railway station) and accommodations are very ordinary-looking. Rooms feel like converted offices, with marble floors, low beds, and that dreary modular look that afflicts so many midrange places. But here, the room quality is more than made up for by the pleasant disposition of the staff and the exceptionally good rates. Everything is spotless and the restaurant is a real haunt for the local office crowd. Besides, it’s only 11⁄2km (1 mile) from the Osho resort, and that’s where you’re likely to spend most of your time anyway.

17, Wilson Garden, Pune 411 001. 020/2613-7964. Fax 020/2605-5460. thesamrathotel@vsnl.net. 51 units (tubs in suites only). Rs 2,200 executive double; Rs 2,900 A/C executive double; Rs 3,600 suite; Rs 400 extra person. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; free airport transfer; room service. In room: A/C (some) and fan, TV, fridge (in suites), Wi-Fi (Rs 113/hr.; Rs 338/day).

WHERE TO DINE

Over and above the healthy fare served at the Osho resort (strictly accessible to card-carrying Oshoites who’ve signed up for a meditation pass), there’s no lack of quality eating spots in this rapidly evolving city; the real trick is to find one of the original eating houses where locals go for their daily lunchtime feast. The best of these don’t even have English signboards, nor do they look very much like restaurants from the outside anyway. If you’re exploring the Old City, one of the most authentic places to stop for a good typical Maharashtrian vegetarian thali (platter), is Badshahi on Tilak Road. None of the upmarket hotels will have a clue what you’re talking about if you ask about it, but an auto-rickshaw driver should be able to get you there. Don’t expect any of the staff to speak any English, but when they see you arrive and hear you ask “Thali?

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