India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [150]
GETTING AROUND Taxis and auto-rickshaws are widely available in Aurangabad, and you’ll be approached at the airport by the usual touts offering you a “good deal.” Though the scamsters and touts here are far less aggressive or annoying than those you encounter farther north, always arrange the fare upfront; a taxi from the airport into the city should cost about Rs 250. Classic Travel Services (at the MTDC Holiday Resort; see above; 0240/233-7788 or -5598, or 93-2521-2444; www.classictours.info; contact@classicservices.in) will arrange just about any type of transport for travel within Aurangabad and environs (count on around Rs 2,000 for a full day with a car and driver, less if you’re only going to Ellora); if you’re in any way unsure, ask to speak to Anil Kumar ( 93-2600-3533). All hotels have travel desks that will organize a car with a guide for any of the sights in the area; the best guides for the caves can be organized through Kishoor at the travel desk at the Taj Residency (see “Where to Stay,” later).
AURANGABAD
Aurangabad takes its name from the last of the great Moghul emperors, the hard-edged Aurangzeb, who enacted an almost Shakespearean drama in the 17th century when he took control of the empire by murdering his siblings and imprisoning his father, Shah Jahan , before leaving Delhi in 1693 to make this city his base. Today the sprawling city is one of the fastest-growing industrial centers in India, and while it’s the most convenient base from which to visit two of India’s most exquisite historic attractions, the cave temples at Ellora and Ajanta, it’s not really a destination in its own right. However, time allowing, it has a few attractions worth noting. Best known is Bibi-ka-Maqbara—also known as the “Black Taj Mahal”—a mausoleum built for Aurangzeb’s empress by his son, Azam Shah, and a supposed replica of the more famous mausoleum built by his grandfather in Agra. Set amid large landscaped gardens and surrounded by high walls, it’s primarily interesting from a historical point of view, lacking as it does the fine detail and white marble of its inspiration (the builders were forced to complete the project in stone and plaster because of financial constraints). Although you can’t enter the tomb itself, an amble through the grounds (admission Rs 100; daily sunrise–9pm) affords you the opportunity to compare this project with the original Agra masterpiece. If you follow the dirt road that leads past Bibi-ka-Maqbara up into the hills for some 2km (1 1⁄4 miles)—a stiff climb—you will come across the Aurangabad Caves (Rs 100; sunrise–sunset), a series of nine man-made Buddhist caves dating from the 6th to 8th centuries. Similar to the Buddhist Caves at Ajanta (but not in the same class), they feature original painting fragments and offer spectacular views of the city and the landscape beyond.
On the way to Ellora is Daulatabad Fort (Rs 100; sunrise–sunset), a spectacular medieval hill fortress that makes for thrilling exploration (you’ll need at least 2 hours to do it justice—it’s a vast complex of labyrinthine passages, multiple storied buildings, and precipices, with a number of stiff climbs to get to the best views). Built by the Yadavas in the 12th century, it comprises an elaborate system of mazelike tunnels that served as an ingenious defense system: Once intruders were holed up deep within the tunnels, guards would welcome them with flaming torches, hot oil, or burning coals, effectively