India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [16]
• “We look; we look”: This response from a rickshaw-walla or driver usually means that the person either doesn’t know where you’ve asked him to take you, or you’ll end up somewhere with a similar name but nothing else to recommend it (Hotel Chandra, for example, rather than Hotel Chand). Prebook your accommodations whenever you can, so that you don’t have to deal with touts and hawkers when you arrive. And be aware that a hotel or guesthouse that is successful will often have a rival opening within the year with a confusingly similar name.
• “So where are you from, good gentleman?” (or more commonly, “Coming from?”): You will be asked this often, so prepare yourself. One of the possible reasons Indians kick-start conversations this way is that where you come from may in the past have indicated caste or social position; whatever the reason, engage in the opener—it’s far preferable to living in a five-star hotel cocoon.
• “Hashish, taxi, guide, young girls?”: In the well-traveled parts of India, you will be inundated with offers of assistance; again, the best response is to doggedly desist in what is essentially a game of endurance, and certainly ignore those unsolicited offers that are illicit—these can carry a hefty penalty, including a lengthy jail sentence.
• “Cof-fay, chai; cof-fay, chai; cof-fay, chai?”: This incessant call given by the chai-walla wandering the corridors of your train will put to rest any romantic notions about the relaxation of train travel. Note that you will be most comfortable aboard the overnight Rajdhanis, which connect all the major cities, while the best daytime trains are the Shatabdis (book Chair Class). Time allowing, you should definitely book a “toy train” to the hill stations of Shimla or Darjeeling—the latter approach is so spectacular it has been named a World Heritage Site.
• “Yes, madam”; “Yes, sir”: You will hear this everywhere, usually from hawkers wanting to draw your attention and con artists wanting to strike up a conversation. Unfortunately, the only way to get rid of these irritants is to completely ignore them. In places like Varanasi, even saying no is perceived as a willingness to interact, and your pursuer will then continue to try to draw you into conversation. Just pretend you can’t be bothered, and hopefully, in a little while, you won’t.
• “You wait, no problem”: Finally, we can’t emphasize enough how important it is to simply relax and accept whatever’s going on around you. Many Indians subscribe to the philosophy that life is destiny, and getting uptight or flying into a rage usually won’t solve much. You’ll have a far better vacation if you simply give in to the moment and enjoy the experience; after all, the only aspect you have control over is your response.
Chapter 2: India in Depth
A great triangle of land thrusting out of Asia, past the Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea, and deep into the Indian Ocean, India is a vast country (similar in size to Europe) and home to an ancient culture with a host of historic and architectural treasures unparalleled in the world. But more than anything else, it is India’s enigmatic “otherness” that so fascinates the first-time visitor, for perhaps no other country on earth can offer so much contrast—traveling within the subcontinent feels at times like traveling through time. From the snowy peaks of the Himalayas, where prayer flags flutter against an impossibly blue sky, to the golden deserts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, where women wear saris saturated with fuchsia and saffron; from the vast plains of Madhya Pradesh, dotted with ruins and tiger parks, to the lush tropical mountains and paradisiacal beaches off the Malabar Coast, the spectrum of images and experiences is stupendous. Perhaps one of the most heterogeneous cultures in the world, with a mosaic of languages, dialects, religions, races, customs, and cuisines, India and its people cannot be defined, labeled, or pigeonholed—only experienced. Whether you’re planning your trip to do a spiritual pilgrimage, view (or shop for) its myriad treasures,