India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [168]
Porba Vaddo, Calangute, Bardez 403 519. 0832/227-9061. Fax 0832/227-9064. www.pousada-tauma.com. 12 units. Oct and Mar–Apr: 210€ standard suite, 235€ superior suite, 320€ deluxe suite; Nov–Dec 19 and Jan 11–Feb: 225€ standard, 250€ superior, 340€ deluxe; Dec 20–Jan 10: 250€ standard, 275€ superior, 350€ deluxe; May–Sept: 140€–155€ standard, 150€–180€ superior, 180€–260€ deluxe; 80€ extra bed. Rates include breakfast and lunch or dinner; 10% tax extra. MC, V. No children. Amenities: Restaurant (Copper Bowl; reviewed), bar; airport transfers (Rs 1,000–Rs 1,200); fitness room; Internet (free); large outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer on request, minibar.
Expensive
Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel You need to catch a public ferry to get there, but once you do you’ll feel like you’ve reached a sanctuary that’s untouchable. Restored by the same talent-filled couple responsible for Nilaya Hermitage (reviewed above), it may not have all the luxuries and distractions of a resort, but it does have an epic location, spectacular views of the sea, and a sense of charm and style that are really hard to beat. Seven rooms are built into the fortress rampart (choose Friday, the loveliest suite, with a large balcony)—windows and Mediterranean-style terraces open towards the water, with views along Goa’s coast—and in the courtyard the old Portuguese church is still used by the villagers. Rooms are beautiful, decorated in saffron and ocher, gold and black, with expansive open-design bathrooms, and a chic minimalism with strategic use of period furniture, large wrought-iron designer beds, uniquely patterned linens, and pared-down ornamentation recognizing the fort’s historical origins, built by a maharajah to protect this enclave from the Portuguese. Although the views are outstanding and the food superb, you may find life a little dull (no pool, and the beach is a 3-min. ferry away) and isolated (90 min. from Baga). However, it’s hard to beat if you want to really get away from it all, and you can rent a speedboat for dolphin-watching, take a cruise on the wooden dhow, or mingle with members of Tiracol’s tiny village community.
Tiracol, Pernem 403 524. 02366/22-7631 or 0832/652-9653. www.forttiracol.com. 7 units. Sept–Mar Rs 7,600 double, Rs 9,600 suite; Apr–May Rs 6,080 double, Rs 7,680 suite; June–Aug Rs 5,320 double, Rs 6,720 suite; Dec 20–Jan 10 Rs 9,500 double, Rs 13,500 suite. Rates include breakfast and dinner; 10% tax extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar, lounge with CD; airport transfers (Rs 2,000–Rs 3,000); dhow; Internet (in office; for e-mail only); massage center. In room: Fans, TV/DVD (in suites; also on request, Rs 300/day).
Panchavatti If you’re looking for a little peace and quiet in a soul-stirring setting and don’t care too much for phones, air conditioners, bathtubs, and the like, then Isla (Loulou) Van Damme’s place is the ultimate refuge from the frenzy of India. Most people come to Goa for the beaches, but Loulou’s guesthouse (also her home), with its stunning location on a hill on Corjuem Island, is where you come to put your feet up and relax, take a dip or yoga instruction, or contemplate life. Meals are to die for, served on the large open colonnaded balcony that overlooks the valley. In Loulou’s inimitable style, there are no latches or locks on any of the doors and bathrooms are curtained off from the bedrooms by thin cotton saris. Book one of the four rooms that open onto the large balcony (the rest overlook a central courtyard and garden). The pool is fabulously placed—on the edge of a hill. When you